[TheForge] Copper

[Demon Buddha]

Jeffrey L Jones wrote:
> 
> To all on the list,
> I have a job coming up where I need to clad a large door with plates of
> copper.  I will be using about a 16 gauge or slightly heavier thickness.
> Having never worked with copper before I have three questions.
> 
> 1) What is the best way to cut copper and maintain tight tolerances?

	That depends on the sorts of cuts and the tolerances you
	need to keep.  For straight cuts across a sheet, a squaring
	shear is the way to go.  I don't think you have so much
	space for one, though.  A band saw can be accurate, but again
	that's a piece of equipment you don't (didn't) have.  And Edwards
	shear does well.  You can do good cuts with tin snips, but that
	would take the patience of a minor saint and a lot of time.
	How about your plasma cutter?  It will work on copper.  With
	the right templates and a good steady hand (which you have) you
	should be able to get good cuts needing minimal finish work.
> 
> 2) A finish is required that is dark brown like an old penny, but with
> streaks like something dripped down the face and tarnished the once
> bright copper.  How do I get such a finish?

	Crap, I have Rowe's book on copper patinas, but it's still in
	Scottsdale.  There are hundreds of recipes with photos and the
	procedure for obtaining the specific finish.  Perhaps a trip to
	the library, or send the request to the artmetal (I CC'd it). I
	know some of the folks there have the book as well.  Perhaps
	they would be so good as to look a few up and send them.
> 
> 3) Finished panels will be adhered to the door face without any visible
> fasteners (i.e. glue).  What is a good adhesive to permanently fix copper
> to wood?

	If it will be flat, perhaps contact cement, the same as is used
	for veneering plywood and particle board.  I would get a sanding
	disk on the hidden surface so that it is rough and clean.  Apply
	contact cement to door and copper, let dry, then apply.  There is
	a technique for doing this such that you don't glue the laminate
	onto the wood crooked.  Once that happens you will have a devil
	of a time getting it off.  I believe you place wax paper onto the
	wood surface, then lay the laminate onto the paper.  This prevents
	sticking as you position the pieces how you want them.  When you
	are satisfied, you begin pulling the wax paper out.  I've not done
	it but saw it done by a bunch of way accomplished cabinet guys in
	Mesa.  I was amazed at how well it worked.  I used to have fits 
	with that when I worked in cabinet shops through college.

	Hope you're well.  I'n back east.  Things got REALLY weird in
	Phoenix and I had to leave.  I'll drop you a line. 

	Best wishes.

	-Andy