[TheForge] Working copper
Dave Brown
[email protected]
Tue Mar 12 15:19:00 2002
At 14:55 03/12/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Many thanks for the advice on edge joining copper...very much appreciated.
>
>But a question, Dave, and probably a dumb one. What do you mean by 'tinning
>the tabs first'? Do you mean just fluxing and putting solder on them
Yep. In spite of the fact that you're using solder, it's still called
tinning just like it is when you clean a soldering iron (actually copper)
and put fresh solder on the working surfaces so they stay clean longer when
being heated.
>I do have some pure tin if necessary. I'm kinda
>guessing that is just an expression for soldering
Yep, you're right. You ain't near a dumb as I look, is you? It's just
putting a very thin layer of solder on at least one of the surfaces to be
mated. You don't have to worry about good capillary action to get the
solder all the way into the joint, it's already there. It doesn't take a
lot of solder to make a good lap joint, just so that there is solder
covering the whole of the mating surfaces.
>Also another question, if I may: If successfully soldered, should I be able
>to cold work them flat just as if it was the copper sheet, without them
>coming apart?
I think, and I'm not really sure here, but that if the fit is tight then
there will be very little solder inside the joints and you should be able
to work it a little. But the Solder is harder than the copper, so working
the copper will be tough. Also, once soldered you will not be able to
anneal the work area again. I think the solder will get brittle when the
area is worked and the joining might weaken. But this can be solved with a
little judicious and delicate torch work. Again, I'm not positive
here. There's as much guessing as there is experience and book-learning in
this last bit.
Dave
<who should stay out in the shop instead of constantly coming in and
checking e-mails>