[TheForge] We'll leave the light on for ya...was rod ovens

Mon Mar 4 14:20:11 2002

go to ELECTRICAL  supply store and  ask for130 volt  bulbs they last a lot
longer esp. in hard to replace spots terry  hammond mill camp ground
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Scheid" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] We'll leave the light on for ya...was rod ovens


> ok if you can answer me this I've got a problem that the lights burnout
> quickly in my house I'm in the sticks so we get black outs and most likely
> both High and low voltage swings what type of bulb will last the best
(other
> then florescent I don't do well in their light)
> Dan Scheid
> Flying horse forge
> http://home.earthlink.net/~chevalvolant/flyinghorseforge.html
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Freeman" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 10:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] We'll leave the light on for ya...was rod ovens
>
>
> Ahh, but we're not done with you yet.
> The down side of using 130 W bulbs is that you get even LESS light for the
> power you use.  A better solution has been known for years and has been
> available retail for about 10 years � the halogen lamp.  It seems that if
> you put a halogen (e.g., iodine) into a light bulb, the tungsten vapors
from
> the filiment react with the halogen vapors, resulting in a compound that
> does not deposit on the glass.  Instead it eventually hits the hot
filiment
> and reacts to deposit tungsten metal.  Hence the halogen bulb is
> self-healing, to an extent.  Because of that, they can be run even hotter,
> so produce more light than a standard tungsten bulb.  But of course that
> makes the filiments even more delicate, so you have to be careful with
them.
> And since they're housed in quartz (to stand the heat cycles) they are
> subject to breakage if handled wrong.  (Apparently water weakens quartz,
but
> I'm unclear on the chemistry.)
>
> Meanwhile, fluorescent lamps work on a completely different principal.  An
> arc is struck down the length of a partially evacuated tube (containing a
> little nitrogen).  Just like in arc welding, the arc releases a lot of UV
> light, and comparatively little heat and visible light (that's compared to
a
> hot filiment).  (If it were neon, not nitrogen, you'd get the famous
"neon"
> red light.  But neon is at least 200X more expensive than nitrogen, and
who
> wants red light anyway?)  Now, if you use a glass tube you'll lose most of
> the UV light and most of the energy efficiency.  But coat the inside wall
of
> that glass tube with (highly toxic!) fluorescent compounds, and most of
the
> UV light is converted to visible light.  There is a color difference,
> however, since the fluorescent compounds emit only a number of
wavelengths,
> not a continuous spectrum.  Nonetheless, fluorescent lamps give you much
> greater energy efficiency.  (And if they won't light on cold mornings,
wave
> a lit propane torch about 4 feet under them to warm the tubes a bit � then
> they'll light and stay lit.)
>
> Bruce
> NJ
>
> >>> "Stephen McGehee" <[email protected]> 03/04/02 12:00PM >>>
> Some light bulb basics here folks:
> A regular incandescent bulb puts out appx. 97% heat and 3% visible
> light.  If you look at the end of the bulb at the words and numbers, you
> will notice it says maybe 60 Watt  120 Volts.  You probably bought the
> bulbs at the supermarket or wally world, so I know that you have 120
> Volt bulbs.  The filament, which is the working part inside, is just a
> piece of wire.  Every time you turn it on the inrush current physically
> whips that little wire a bit.  As that little wire sits there, glowing,
> it is evaporating tungsten molecules into the atmosphere of the bulb.
> That causes the dark deposit inside of light bulbs and vacuum tubes.
> Over time, this evaporation makes for a thinner wire, and each time it
> is turned on, that micro-movement whips it a little harder as it has
> less mass.
>
> But there is hope for the working class
>
> and that rhymes...Go to a real electrical wholesaler(or to a lesser
> degree, some place like Lowes or Home Despot) walk up to the counter and
> ask for "130 Volt Bulbs"  They are available in most popular wattages
> for about half again more than el cheapo discount center bulbs.  You are
> buying a bulb with a heavier filament, and since the line voltage in
> most parts of the country runs a bit over 120, these bulbs will last
> many months longer than "regular" 120 Volt ones.   Another factor
> contributing to bulb life:  The "life" of a given bulb is determined by
> burning a big mess of  bulbs at their rated voltage, continuously until
> 50% have burned out.  Therefore, the 25 Watt bulb that you so carefully
> placed in the bottom of your rod storage enclosure will probably last
> several years because it burns continuously (if you don't drop cans of
> rods thereon...)
>
> To extrapolate on the above theory, you can buy 240Volt bulbs with a
> standard base.  A 240 V, 100 Watt bulb consumes 50 Watts at half
> voltage(120) so if you put one of these in the impossible to reach
> fixture above your grandmas attic stairs, it will last 10 years...  They
> also make "rough service" bulbs that have extra bracing of the filament
> ; these are great for drop lights that get knocked around...that's why
> they are called drop lights...
> The above is probably more than anyone wanted to know about light bulbs
> but now you know that you have additional options for peace, prosperity
> and longevity...
>
> Stephen McGehee, Publisher
> Irony - the sketchbook of an apprentice blacksmith
>
>
>
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