[TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square

Phil Rosche [email protected]
Thu Jan 24 12:25:01 2002


You don't get a lot of penetration with 6013.  You might try 6011.  They also make 7018 now to run on AC welders.

Phil Rosche

> Thanks to all.  I need to buy some new dry rod.  Would you recommend 6013
> for this application?
> RW
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Miller, Ray (GEAE) <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 9:10 AM
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
> 
> 
> > Absolutely!! What you need to do is grind in a "weld Prep". Chamfer the
> ends
> > of each side of the butt joint. When you go to make the weld, not actually
> > butt the ends together. Leave a gap, less than an 1/8" and then put in a
> > root pass. The gap will improve your chances of good solid root pass
> fusion.
> > Then put in your cover passes until you have enough material to grind back
> > the surface for finishing. Or if esthetics is secondary, put in a nice
> final
> > cover pass and your good to go.
> >
> > Ray Miller
> > Cincinnati, Ohio 4
> >
> > http://www.casealum.org/alumnuswinter2001/page6.htm
> >
> > http://www.uc.edu/profiles/rmiller.htm
> >
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> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: RW [mailto:[email protected]]
> > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 8:32 AM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
> >
> >
> > Is it possible to butt weld 1 1/2" solid mild steel with a 230 amp max.,
> AC
> > 220v welder?
> > It does not need to be a "structural weld", just to hold a fireplace grate
> > frame together.
> > I tried it with a #7 oxy/acet tip which is for 1 1/4" max and it is not
> much
> > better than if I had used chewing gum.
> > RW
> >
> >
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