[TheForge] Help! finish problem

Wed Feb 6 23:59:28 2002

Mata

Here is the recipe given by George Dixon that he used at the Yellin forge,
and it sure works for me.

Harry Foster
Rusty Dog Forge

If, for example, you use a one pound coffee can;
60% linseed oil (boiled)
40% turpentine
one 8 oz bottle of japan drier (or pale drying oil)

Apply at room temp to clean (hand sanded) metalwork with a brush (rags
can't fit
where a brush can and brushes don't leave lint).  Once dry, apply a coat
of paste wax
with a brush.  Allow the wax to dry and buff with a shoe brush (again,
no rags-no
lint).  Repeat the waxing two more times.

Since the metal and the coating are at room temperature the outcome is
even and quick
when compared to heating a rail before coating it.

I have interior work well over a decade old, coated as described, with
no rust at all.

Take care,
George Dixon

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]On Behalf Of mata iaia
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 4:40 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TheForge] Help! finish problem

Hi all,

I made a finish from a recipe of 2 parts linseed, 1 part turpintine, 3
tablespoons japan drier, and about 4 tablespoons of beeswax.

My problem is that my piece is still really tacky in some places and oily in
others.  It has been approximately 24 hours.  Did I get the recipe wrong or
will it just take much longer to dry?  What can do if it stays sticky to
make it dry out or thin out??

Thanks,

Mata

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