[TheForge] propane forge forced air

thermoss [email protected]
Fri Dec 28 23:09:20 2001


Thanks for the reply,frosty
 Your advice / comments are always very factual , concise and I believe,
from the heart. I personally would like to thank you for being  a member of
this list.
              Happy new year!
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Frost <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] propane forge forced air


> Started to reply to this a few days ago but it started snowing and I got
> called in of some OT. Had to do it. <grin>
>
> Eliminate the original burner and replace it with solid pipe.
>
> What you're doing is supercharging a naturally aspirated system. The
inducer
> is drawing air at a metered rate by creating a vacuum using the primary
gas
> pressure of the propane through the jet. The system as designed will
provide
> more than enough air for proper combustion.
>
> By supercharging it with an added blower you're forcing too much air into
> the system.
>
> Just remove the original burner and replace it with black iron pipe and a
> propane supply line. You don't really need a jet for a gun (forced air)
> system if you can control the pressure well enough, still It's simpler to
> use a jet as most regulators don't turn down low enough.
>
> For example: If your pipe running from the blower is 1" put a 1" x 1" x
1/4"
> "T" in it before it gets to the manifold "T". Use a 1/4" F pipe die and
over
> thread one end of a 1/4" pipe nipple and thread it through the 1/4" leg of
> the "T" then thread a cap on the end inside the "T". The cap being drilled
> for the jet. You'll need to do a little experimenting to get a good jet
size
> but with a blower and decent regulator you'll have plenty of room for
> adjustment. There are lots of ways to make a gun burner and what I
outlined
> is just one.
>
> These are a couple rules of thumb to keep in mind though: 1) Propane and
air
> don't mix well without help so a long run from the jet to the forge, a
> couple bends, "T"s, a swirl strip, etc. will help combustion. 2) You'll
have
> a length of pipe, manifold, etc. filled with a flamable air:fuel mixture
and
> for reasons I don't know a flame front doesn't travel around corners well
so
> at least one 90* "L" is a good idea. A blowout panel aimed in a safe
> direction won't hurt either. 3) Unlike a naturally aspirated burner, a gun
> operates under positive pressure so ANY leaks will put propane in the air.
>
> That's about all I have off the top of my head.
>
> Frosty
> ------------------------
> If it ain't forged
> it ain't real.
> Wrought iron is.
> The FrostWorks
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "thermoss" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 10:49 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] propane forge forced air
>
>
> > I have a nc tool 2 burner knifemakers forge. recently I decided to build
a
> > manifold and add a forced air blower.
> > The manifold blows air through the venturi openings. I put a air gate on
> the
> > "in " side of the blower to control the air flow .
> > I am not seeing a great difference in the efficiency of the forge and
the
> > scale seems worse than without the forced air.  do I need to adjust the
> size
> > of the jets? larger  or smaller?also the back of the forge is not
getting
> as
> > hot as the front.     any suggestions?
> >
>
>
>
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