[SignalOne] LM380 vs TDA2030A
jerry
jerry at tr2.com
Mon Nov 25 21:25:05 EST 2024
Hello All,
So I'm having an audio amp shootout to figure out what to put in the
CX7A.
I have a stick of LM380's in from Mouser today. I assembled one
dead-bug onto a scrap of single-sided bare PC board stock. It worked.
Then I started "improving" it by bypassing everything, and it took off
like a bird. Wheee! I undid all the bypasses and it was good again.
The culprit was the recommended .1uF/2.8-ohm series string hooked off
the speaker output. It's supposed to improve stability at the negative
peaks when driving a high-current load - like a speaker, or the 8-ohm
power resistor that I was using.
Without that recommended series string, it seems to be unconditionally
stable. HOWEVER, I do see a little fuzzyness on those negative peaks,
so I guess it's making RF. Also, at higher frequencies there's a
smidgeon of crossover distortion.
So I just reached into the baggie of TDA2030A amplifiers that I had
bought so very cheaply from Amazon - $10 for 8 amplifiers!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P5VZ2KZ
One of them had died when I put too much voltage across it; even though
the TDA2030A itself is rated for 35V or so, the electrolytics on the
little board were not. Oops. Another one died when I left it cooking
on the bench, outputting a continuous 1 watt sine wave while I did other
things.
At the price I got them, I wouldn't be at all surprised if the devices
were bin rejects.
Anway, I opened another one of those baggies and set up the TDA2030A amp
on the bench. It's definitely cleaner than the LM380. No crossover
distortion that I can see, no RF at the peaks - just nice clean power.
So - maybe delivering a whole watt for hours is not a realistic test.
Now I'm cooking that little tiny amp at 1/3W continuous. If it does OK,
I'm really tempted to put it in.
I saw a video of a Swedish ham who installed that exact amp in a CX7 -
he just mounted it to the existing PS board standoff through I guess a
longer screw.
- Jerry, KF6VB
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