[R-390] Gear Train Removal
Jordan Arndt
Outposter30 at shaw.ca
Tue Sep 3 10:48:38 EDT 2024
I use MG Chemicals Penetrating Oil as a de-greaser, along with dish soap and
hot distilled water and a bunch of stiff nylon brushes..any lube goes on
after the hot water runs off clean as indicated by white paper towels laid
under the front of the deck...It usually takes a few repeats of the
process...
My .02 worth...73...Jordan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry" <n4buq at knology.net>
To: "thoyer" <thoyer1 at verizon.net>
Cc: "Larry Haney" <larry41gm2 at gmail.com>; "R-390 Mailing List"
<r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2024 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: [R-390] Gear Train Removal
> Hi Tom,
>
> Thanks for the WD-40 tip. I find I'm not fond of the residue it leaves
> but it definitely will dissolve grease and oil. I'm planning on using an
> engine degreaser followed by judicious use of synthetic oil where needed.
> I plan to remove the slug racks and transformers before cleaning to avoid
> getting any fluid in those. Hopefully it will be enough to get the job
> done.
>
> Thanks!
> Barry - N4BUQ
>
>> I do the "WD40" Bath to clean the gear trains. I get a big can, remove
>> the RF
>> deck, Place it over a pan and start spraying. I'll use a tooth brush,
>> acid
>> brush, q-tips or whatever needed to help clean the hard to get to areas.
>> The
>> WD40 does a good job at breaking up the old grease / lube. Once
>> everything is
>> loosened up and turning freely I'll let it sit for a day to let the WD40
>> drip
>> off and go back and lubricate the pivot / rotating points. Right or
>> wrong, I do
>> not lube the gear teeth. I'll end up using pretty much the whole can.
>> Just did a 390A for a local guy. Tuning was hard and clunky. After the
>> above
>> described treatment it is now very smooth. Owner was very impressed!
>> TomW3TA
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 3, 2024 at 12:39:20 AM EDT, Larry Haney
>> <larry41gm2 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi all, I've had a bunch with over lubed or incorrectly lubed gears,
>> tuning racks and cams, and a few under lubed digital readouts, but
>> fortunately nothing so bad as to seriously impair operation. I guess I've
>> been lucky. And no worn gears.
>>
>> Regards, Larry
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 2, 2024 at 8:16 PM Jim Whartenby via R-390 <
>> r-390 at mailman.qth.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I think that the tendency is to over do gear lubrication, not under do
>>> it. The Preliminary R-390 manual says "It must be remembered that over
>>> lubrication can cause more harm then no lubrication." I tend to agree
>>> having bought an R-390A from the late Hank Arney that was so over
>>> greased,
>>> the kc and mc knobs were frozen. A lot of solvent, detergent and
>>> denatured
>>> alcohol using an acid brush mounted on a dowel to get deep into the gear
>>> works finally freed the binding. There was no need to do a complete
>>> teardown.
>>>
>>> Our brother collectors of clocks do not lube gear teeth, just pivot
>>> points, and sparingly. The thought is that grease attracts dust and dirt
>>> which does more harm then good. In the half dozen R-390A I have
>>> reworked,
>>> I have yet to find a worn gear. Has anyone?
>>>
>>> YMMV,
>>> Jim
>>> Logic: Method used to arrive at the wrong conclusion, with confidence.
>>> Murphy
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 2, 2024 at 05:55:29 PM CDT, Barry <
>>> n4buq at knology.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> While I have the RF Deck out, I'm going to clean and lubricate the
>>> gears,
>>> rollers, etc. Reading the manual, apparently the from "apron" of the
>>> gear
>>> train can be removed without all that much difficulty. If I remove that
>>> apron, do the gears stay with the main part of the deck or does some of
>>> them come off with the apron?
>>>
>>> I'm asking because, while I'm still considering a complete teardown
>>> (which
>>> is just a bit more daunting than the A model which I've done before), it
>>> might be good enough if I can maximize the exposure of the gears and
>>> just
>>> settle for cleaning/lubing them in situ. Any comments on that?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Barry - N4BUQ
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