[R-390] Gear Train Removal

[Barry]

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the WD-40 tip.  I find I'm not fond of the residue it leaves but it definitely will dissolve grease and oil.  I'm planning on using an engine degreaser followed by judicious use of synthetic oil where needed.  I plan to remove the slug racks and transformers before cleaning to avoid getting any fluid in those.  Hopefully it will be enough to get the job done.

Thanks!
Barry - N4BUQ

> I do the "WD40" Bath to clean the gear trains. I get a big can, remove the RF
> deck, Place it over a pan and start spraying. I'll use a tooth brush, acid
> brush, q-tips or whatever needed to help clean the hard to get to areas. The
> WD40 does a good job at breaking up the old grease / lube. Once everything is
> loosened up and turning freely I'll let it sit for a day to let the WD40 drip
> off and go back and lubricate the pivot / rotating points. Right or wrong, I do
> not lube the gear teeth. I'll end up using pretty much the whole can.
> Just did a 390A for a local guy. Tuning was hard and clunky. After the above
> described treatment it is now very smooth. Owner was very impressed!
> TomW3TA
> 
> 
>    On Tuesday, September 3, 2024 at 12:39:20 AM EDT, Larry Haney
>    <larry41gm2 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi all,  I've had a bunch with over lubed or incorrectly lubed gears,
> tuning racks and cams, and a few under lubed digital readouts, but
> fortunately nothing so bad as to seriously impair operation.  I guess I've
> been lucky.  And no worn gears.
> 
> Regards, Larry
> 
> On Mon, Sep 2, 2024 at 8:16 PM Jim Whartenby via R-390 <
> r-390 at mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> 
>> I think that the tendency is to over do gear lubrication, not under do
>> it.  The Preliminary R-390 manual says "It must be remembered that over
>> lubrication can cause more harm then no lubrication."  I tend to agree
>> having bought an R-390A from the late Hank Arney that was so over greased,
>> the kc and mc knobs were frozen.  A lot of solvent, detergent and denatured
>> alcohol using an acid brush mounted on a dowel to get deep into the gear
>> works finally freed the binding.  There was no need to do a complete
>> teardown.
>>
>> Our brother collectors of clocks do not lube gear teeth, just pivot
>> points, and sparingly.  The thought is that grease attracts dust and dirt
>> which does more harm then good.  In the half dozen R-390A I have reworked,
>> I have yet to find a worn gear.  Has anyone?
>>
>> YMMV,
>> Jim
>> Logic: Method used to arrive at the wrong conclusion, with confidence.
>> Murphy
>>
>>    On Monday, September 2, 2024 at 05:55:29 PM CDT, Barry <
>> n4buq at knology.net> wrote:
>>
>>  While I have the RF Deck out, I'm going to clean and lubricate the gears,
>> rollers, etc.  Reading the manual, apparently the from "apron" of the gear
>> train can be removed without all that much difficulty.  If I remove that
>> apron, do the gears stay with the main part of the deck or does some of
>> them come off with the apron?
>>
>> I'm asking because, while I'm still considering a complete teardown (which
>> is just a bit more daunting than the A model which I've done before), it
>> might be good enough if I can maximize the exposure of the gears and just
>> settle for cleaning/lubing them in situ.  Any comments on that?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Barry - N4BUQ
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