[R-390] Soldering/Desoldering Phenolic Terminals

[Barry Scott]

I soured on using solder wick because I could never quite get it to
flow very well.  Then someone from the TekScopes list said to add flux
to it so I tried that and what a difference that makes!  I didn't
realize the wick I was using was probably dry or, at least, too dry to
work well.  I've had so much success with it since then.

The same fellow also suggested spreading the wick's "fibers" just a
bit which allows more room for the solder to embed itself in the wick.
I am so glad he spoke up when he did; else, I would still be
struggling with my solder sucker.

I do occasionally use the sucker but have mostly set it aside in lieu
of the wick.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

On Tue, Oct 15, 2024 at 9:22 AM <k1jos at att.net> wrote:
>
> I've been restoring a Collins KWS-1.  I have a Hakko 880 vacuum desoldering iron, numerous different 'suckers' but nothing comes close to good solder wick and a 60W pencil iron.  Cheap solder wick works OK but the BEST is MG Chemicals Superwick #426 Fine copper braid which is impregnated with light coating of solder flux.  It sucks up solder at phenolic terminals, standoffs, tube pins better than any 'sucker'.  Critical is using a good heat clip sink on attached components, especially those on ground lugs.  The best heat clips I have found are made by GOOT in Japan.  A bit pricey, comes in straight and curved noses, gets into tight spaces, and lasts forever.  You can buy these on Ebay or Zoro, etc. A long needle nose hemostat works well as a heat sink in really tight places.
>
> https://www.zoro.com/goot-goot-h-2sl-heat-clips-heat-sink-h-2sl/i/G712538478/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&campaignid=21460994809&productid=G712538478&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwpbi4BhByEiwAMC8JnVYiWhz3kenWJAXnnUogmirCZJ2NTVVgh6TVol2BbVsuDTiBKa3zrhoCcgwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
>
> Jerry NY2KW                                                                   ...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net <r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net> On Behalf Of Barry Scott
> Sent: Monday, October 14, 2024 10:47 PM
> To: jshorney at inebraska.com
> Cc: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [R-390] Soldering/Desoldering Phenolic Terminals
>
> On a PCB, a sucker works great when you can really get it centered and sealed against the board.  For things like this, it's pretty much suck or miss in my experience.
>
> Thanks,
> Barry - N4BUQ
>
> On Mon, Oct 14, 2024 at 9:43 PM Jim Shorney <jimnu0c at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > On Mon, 14 Oct 2024 16:16:27 -0500
> > Bill Guyger via R-390 <r-390 at mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> >
> > > The hand held suckers have a recoil that can damage things. I will never use them on circuit boards ( not that the R 390 /A has any) because the recoil can rip traces and or pads off the board.
> >
> > The key to controlling the recoil is to brace you hand/wrist/forearm against something before you hit the button. Been using them for years and the only thing I have ever wrecked as a circular fluorescent lamp right above the work.
> >
> > --
> >
> > 73
> >
> > -Jim
> > NU0C
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > R-390 mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:R-390 at mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> > list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> ______________________________________________________________
> R-390 mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:R-390 at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>