[R-390] Soldering/Desoldering Phenolic Terminals

[k1jos at att.net]

I've been restoring a Collins KWS-1.  I have a Hakko 880 vacuum desoldering iron, numerous different 'suckers' but nothing comes close to good solder wick and a 60W pencil iron.  Cheap solder wick works OK but the BEST is MG Chemicals Superwick #426 Fine copper braid which is impregnated with light coating of solder flux.  It sucks up solder at phenolic terminals, standoffs, tube pins better than any 'sucker'.  Critical is using a good heat clip sink on attached components, especially those on ground lugs.  The best heat clips I have found are made by GOOT in Japan.  A bit pricey, comes in straight and curved noses, gets into tight spaces, and lasts forever.  You can buy these on Ebay or Zoro, etc. A long needle nose hemostat works well as a heat sink in really tight places.  

https://www.zoro.com/goot-goot-h-2sl-heat-clips-heat-sink-h-2sl/i/G712538478/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&campaignid=21460994809&productid=G712538478&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwpbi4BhByEiwAMC8JnVYiWhz3kenWJAXnnUogmirCZJ2NTVVgh6TVol2BbVsuDTiBKa3zrhoCcgwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Jerry NY2KW                                                                   ...

-----Original Message-----
From: r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net <r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net> On Behalf Of Barry Scott
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2024 10:47 PM
To: jshorney at inebraska.com
Cc: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [R-390] Soldering/Desoldering Phenolic Terminals

On a PCB, a sucker works great when you can really get it centered and sealed against the board.  For things like this, it's pretty much suck or miss in my experience.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

On Mon, Oct 14, 2024 at 9:43 PM Jim Shorney <jimnu0c at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> On Mon, 14 Oct 2024 16:16:27 -0500
> Bill Guyger via R-390 <r-390 at mailman.qth.net> wrote:
>
> > The hand held suckers have a recoil that can damage things. I will never use them on circuit boards ( not that the R 390 /A has any) because the recoil can rip traces and or pads off the board.
>
> The key to controlling the recoil is to brace you hand/wrist/forearm against something before you hit the button. Been using them for years and the only thing I have ever wrecked as a circular fluorescent lamp right above the work.
>
> --
>
> 73
>
> -Jim
> NU0C
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