[R-390] Cutting Aluminum With Power Tools

[Bill Guyger]

Hi All

Just as more input / point of view. I do a lot of construction on electronic projects, and use a Sabre / jig saw with a medium tooth per inch blade. Fine blades like you'd use for steel gaul up rapidly. I then finish off with the disc sander on my sanding station. You can obviously file as well or as required.

You can sand or file aluminum but don't try grinding, you'll gunk up your grinding wheel because aluminum is so soft it gauls into the pores in the wheel.  

Bill AD5OL 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 6, 2019, at 6:02 PM, Perry Sandeen via R-390 <r-390 at mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> 
> Yo Bubba Dudes!
> A while back I posted a request for advice for cutting aluminum sheet with power tools (OK nitpickers it was a long time ago).
> I received many good responses of advice.
> I recently had to cut up a number of chassis' and plates so this is how I did it using both a hand skill saw and a cutoff (chop) saw.
> First and foremost: WEAR EYE PROTECTION. The shavings are sharp and travel with both a surprising distance and velocity.  A couple hit my cheek and it was not a pleasant feeling. 
> 
> I installed a new 10 inch, 40 tooth carbide red *Diablo* blade in the normal direction.  I briefly considered buying an 80 tooth one but decided it was too expensive.
> Going slowly I got mirror finish cuts. any burrs can re removed with a fine file or 220 grit sandpaper.
> 
> On some of the thinner material I placed it on top of scrap wood so there was no chatter.  This is a judgement call but with the normal blade gap that comes with the saw using a scrap under piece is preferred.
> On my hand skill saw I also used a new Diable 40 tooth carbide blade and got equally good results.
> I also had some hobby aluminum sheets from Do-It-Best (a mirror of Ace Hardware stores) that were IIRC .019 inches. I did not try to cut them with power tools.  I think the only safe way to cut them is to sandwich them between two pieces of at least 3/4 plywood.
> I found out that time wise, it was better to clamp the piece down on scrap OSB, clamp a straight edge along the desired cut line then use a large Dewalt retractile blade knife and repeatedly score the edge using light to moderate force.  It's a learn by doing technique only.The cut lines are easily smoothed with a small flat jewelers file or a bit of emery cloth sandpaper.
> At this time I don't have access to a table saw but I suspect with the same carbide blade setup and doing a slow feed I'd get the same results. 
> 
> YMMV
> Regards,
> Perrier
> 
> 
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