[R-390] Front Panel Restoration ER Don Reaves

[David]

I've used walnut shell, messy film left on items you strip.
Glass beads work great and available in different sizes, just don't breath dust.
Regards
David 

On Jul 18, 2015, at 5:20 PM, Cecil <chacuff at cableone.net> wrote:

Walnut shell is commercially available but I've never tried it....

Plastic media blasting is used on aircraft to strip paint...haven't tried that either but it should be a good choice.

I have glass bead blasted an R-390 panel...worked great, didn't deform the engravings excessively but did cause the panel to bow as it seemed to cause the blasted side to grow from the impact of the tiny glass beads.

Was hardly noticeable and paint adhered really well.

I only refinished one side..had I done both it might have still been perfectly flat...

Interesting experience.

I still prefer glass bead blasting of the knobs for the paint adhesion advantage.

Cecil

Sent using recycled electrons.

> On Jul 18, 2015, at 9:47 AM, kr4hv <kr4hv at numail.org> wrote:
> 
> Has anyone tried ground pecan shells?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Walt
> KR4HV
> kr4hv at numail.org
> C 678-378-3350
> 
> "There is no excuse for doing a job poorly.  Just do it right.  If you don't
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: R-390 [mailto:r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Cecil
> Sent: Friday, July 17, 2015 8:40 PM
> To: Don Reaves
> Cc: R-390 List
> Subject: Re: [R-390] Front Panel Restoration ER Don Reaves
> 
> I'd be curious to know how you guys are handling the soda that goes
> everywhere and kills the plants.  I killed a spot in the back yard when I
> stripped my R-390 panel a while back....just now supporting life again...
> 
> Is there a better way?
> 
> Would be nice to contain it and wash it down the drain or some such..  (I'll
> probably get spanked for that notion)
> 
> Cecil
> 
> Sent using recycled electrons.
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2015, at 2:32 PM, Don Reaves <donreaves at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> No need for any apologies, Glenn.  I was happy to make my small 
>> contribution to your article because you introduced me to the 
>> effectiveness of soda blasting.  I am using soda blasting with good to 
>> excellent results for all sorts of restoration projects, including 
>> removing peeling latex paint from home exteriors.  But I didn't spend 
>> big bucks for professional equipment.  I used the soda blaster kit 
>> available from the Chinese Junk Shoppe, AKA Harbor Freight, and my 
>> standard shop air compressor, a Devilbliss 5CFM at 90 PSI, 20 gal. tank.
> It works but I do have to go slow
>> to allow the compressor to keep up.   I did add an extra air line filter
> at
>> the blaster tank air input and only use the setup on lower humidity 
>> days outdoors.  I'm not doing R-390 panels - mostly I'm stripping and 
>> repainting WWII era black wrinkle painted gear like ARC-2 and BC-348 
>> cabinets, and some custom rack panels that match ART-13 panels.
>> 
>> The purpose of the zinc chromate is bonding to clean bare aluminum for
>> paint adhesion.   Just painting bare aluminum panels without proper primer
>> means you will be repainting again when it starts flaking off.     Steve
>> mentioned Bulldog adhesion promoter.  I'll have to try that.  There 
>> are other primers for aluminum, such as Marhyde self-etching primer 
>> and aluminum "brighteners" like Duragloss 851, which contain an acid 
>> that lightly etches bare aluminum that promotes paint adhesion.  
>> Lately, I'm getting interested in powder coating my projects since I found
> that black
>> wrinkle media is available for power coating.  As is machine gray.   Hmm.
>> 
>> Painting is an art, not a science.  I'm on my third try now trying to 
>> get a good match repainting the matching power supply (Navy CT-20086)  for
> an RBM
>> receiver.   I get a good paint color/texture match but botch the job with
> a
>> paint run, or get a good paint covering but the color/texture is off.
>> Hats off to guys like Glenn that get consistent professional results!
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