[R-390] RF deck removal

Alan Victor amvictor at ncsu.edu
Fri Oct 10 20:15:17 EDT 2014


Thanks, all good inputs. Nice to know about the backlash spring and the
ball point pen substitute!

Actually, before I drop the panel and pull the RF deck out, all the other
modules will be out anyway. Namely, IF deck (already out) fixed one item
but may as well look for any other bugs that are obvious. The power supply
and the audio deck taken out as well. Main reason... I need to move the
receiver from the lab bench to the workbench. Getting down to about half
its weight is better for me alone. And of course, the entire mainframe has
not been cleaned at all, so that is the goal.

I guess I need to re visit Chucks video on dropping the panel and the issue
of NOT loosing synchronization. While the Y2K says full CCW on MC and KC
knob, I was under the impression, I was to set the CAM tips in line as it
were at 7+000. That is, set MC and KC accordingly and pull the panel and RF
deck at that setting. Not at 00 -963. Am I missing something again? Sorry,
but I am a firm believer in Murphy's law. In any case, open to any/all
comments.

One last item. *My panel hardware was redone somewhere in its life*. The
Phillips screw heads on the main panel attached to the mainframe are
straight head screw and use selflocking nuts. So I suspect the mainframe
tap is stripped. They are stainless, but not Phillips. So I need room to
get behind the panel to get them out and replace with the right hardware.
Another reason to get as much electronics out of the mainframe as
reasonable.

Alan
On Fri, Oct 10, 2014 at 4:59 PM, Craig Heaton <hamfish at efn.org> wrote:

> One reason, because I can! In Alan's case, he is going to take a lookie see
> at the entire radio. Might as well get the IF deck at eye level and search
> for those beautiful BBOD's. Depending on who built the modules in Alan's
> RX,
> could be many BBOD's.
>
> Then for reason #2, more room to play with the crystal deck. Getting that
> contraption back in place over all those springy
> things............................joy.
>
> Reason #3: Just another way of skinning a cat (or animal of your choice).
> We
> all have our faults and suffer from some sort of CRS.
>
> Tongue in Cheek,
>
> Craig
>
> PS: Alan, if you are still reading these post, don't sweat that spacer on
> the Oldham coupler. Try putting a dab of vasoline on one side. When the
> beast goes back together, stick it to the PTO. It might stay in place while
> getting the RF deck seated. If not, loosen the PTO and don't fight city
> hall.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: R-390 [mailto:r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
> Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 4:28 PM
> To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [R-390] RF deck removal
>
> Craig, I've done more round trips removing and reinstalling an RF deck than
> I care to admit to and I've never had to remove the IF deck.  I do have to
> remove some connectors from the IF deck.  Why do you list this?.... Has
> your
> memory gone the same way my 69 year old memory has gone ?
>
> 73, Phil  W5BVB
>
>
> On 10/10/2014 5:47 PM, Craig Heaton wrote:
> > Sort of from memory:
> >
> > Find two short blocks of wood to raise said radio a tad.
> > Remove top & bottom covers.
> > Remove Oldham spring.
> > Reaching in with a very long Philips screwdriver, remove green head
> > screw which holds clamp/wire harness just above the local gain pot.
> > Use hole in bottom left front of RX.
> > Remove IF deck.
> > Place wood blocks/etc under said receiver; set receiver frequency to 7
> > +000 Drop front panel, if you got the correct clamp in above step
> > there will be more than enough slack to drop front panel.
> > Next is the crystal deck; remove coax connectors from antenna relay
> > which are behind the crystal deck. You will have to rotate one of the
> > gears to get to one of three green head screw on the front of the
> > crystal deck. Loosen clamp holding said crystal deck shaft. Slide deck
> > back towards antenna relay and remove.
> >
> > At this point, attack the RF deck with vengeance. Remove all green
> > head screws, spacer from Oldham coupler will fall free from the PTO.
> > It should remain on workbench.
> >
> > YMMV
> >
> > Craig,
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: R-390 [mailto:r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Alan
> > Victor
> > Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 2:43 PM
> > To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: [R-390] RF deck removal
> >
> > In the Y2K manual and the Army TM the instructions for the removal of
> > the RF sub chassis have you remove the Oldham coupler backlash spring
> > first. Then remove the front panel following the procedure in a
> > previous paragraph. In that previous paragraph the KC knob is to be
> rotated fully CCW to -963.
> > QUESTION: Why not do this first and then remove the backlash spring.
> > Does it matter? Not knowing any better,  it would seem I run some risk
> > turning the KC knob with the backlash spring removed.
> > Is the pressure present on the pressed couplings sufficient that this
> > is just not an issue? Or if I rotate to -963, I cannot get to the
> > backlash spring readily?
> >
> > One last item. I notice in the TM a CAUTION that during the removal of
> > the RF sub chassis, the Oldham coupler on the VFO shaft will come
> > apart and the center disk will fall to the bench. I can see my luck,
> > it will fall on the floor never to be found! This item is not in the
> > Y2K manual, perhaps because it can be handled in a better way? Or
> > there is typically so much grime and grease that it just does not fall
> off.
> >
> > Comments?
> >
> > Thanks again in advance!
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