[R-390] RF deck removal

[Craig Heaton]

One reason, because I can! In Alan's case, he is going to take a lookie see
at the entire radio. Might as well get the IF deck at eye level and search
for those beautiful BBOD's. Depending on who built the modules in Alan's RX,
could be many BBOD's.

Then for reason #2, more room to play with the crystal deck. Getting that
contraption back in place over all those springy
things............................joy.

Reason #3: Just another way of skinning a cat (or animal of your choice). We
all have our faults and suffer from some sort of CRS.

Tongue in Cheek,

Craig

PS: Alan, if you are still reading these post, don't sweat that spacer on
the Oldham coupler. Try putting a dab of vasoline on one side. When the
beast goes back together, stick it to the PTO. It might stay in place while
getting the RF deck seated. If not, loosen the PTO and don't fight city
hall.



-----Original Message-----
From: R-390 [mailto:r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 4:28 PM
To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [R-390] RF deck removal

Craig, I've done more round trips removing and reinstalling an RF deck than
I care to admit to and I've never had to remove the IF deck.  I do have to
remove some connectors from the IF deck.  Why do you list this?.... Has your
memory gone the same way my 69 year old memory has gone ?

73, Phil  W5BVB


On 10/10/2014 5:47 PM, Craig Heaton wrote:
> Sort of from memory:
>
> Find two short blocks of wood to raise said radio a tad.
> Remove top & bottom covers.
> Remove Oldham spring.
> Reaching in with a very long Philips screwdriver, remove green head 
> screw which holds clamp/wire harness just above the local gain pot. 
> Use hole in bottom left front of RX.
> Remove IF deck.
> Place wood blocks/etc under said receiver; set receiver frequency to 7 
> +000 Drop front panel, if you got the correct clamp in above step 
> there will be more than enough slack to drop front panel.
> Next is the crystal deck; remove coax connectors from antenna relay 
> which are behind the crystal deck. You will have to rotate one of the 
> gears to get to one of three green head screw on the front of the 
> crystal deck. Loosen clamp holding said crystal deck shaft. Slide deck 
> back towards antenna relay and remove.
>
> At this point, attack the RF deck with vengeance. Remove all green 
> head screws, spacer from Oldham coupler will fall free from the PTO. 
> It should remain on workbench.
>
> YMMV
>
> Craig,
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: R-390 [mailto:r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Alan 
> Victor
> Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 2:43 PM
> To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [R-390] RF deck removal
>
> In the Y2K manual and the Army TM the instructions for the removal of 
> the RF sub chassis have you remove the Oldham coupler backlash spring 
> first. Then remove the front panel following the procedure in a 
> previous paragraph. In that previous paragraph the KC knob is to be
rotated fully CCW to -963.
> QUESTION: Why not do this first and then remove the backlash spring. 
> Does it matter? Not knowing any better,  it would seem I run some risk 
> turning the KC knob with the backlash spring removed.
> Is the pressure present on the pressed couplings sufficient that this 
> is just not an issue? Or if I rotate to -963, I cannot get to the 
> backlash spring readily?
>
> One last item. I notice in the TM a CAUTION that during the removal of 
> the RF sub chassis, the Oldham coupler on the VFO shaft will come 
> apart and the center disk will fall to the bench. I can see my luck, 
> it will fall on the floor never to be found! This item is not in the 
> Y2K manual, perhaps because it can be handled in a better way? Or 
> there is typically so much grime and grease that it just does not fall
off.
>
> Comments?
>
> Thanks again in advance!
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