[R-390] R-390 Digest, Vol 103, Issue 8

Sat Nov 10 12:56:50 EST 2012

IMO, the optimum torque for 390/390A clamps is 4 to 4.5 in-lb.

Best regards,

Charles

Have you actually worked on a gear train or is this your guess? Also I looked at the Milwaukee cordless driver before I bought the Ryobi. I found tne Ryobi to be more comfortable to use and the adjustable torque drive to be  smoother and easier to set.

Glenn WA4AOS
DSM Labs (dot com.

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Subject: R-390 Digest, Vol 103, Issue 8

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Torque and Clamps (Charles P. Steinmetz)
   2. Clamps and Torque (Glenn)
   3. TS 30 and more (Glenn)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2012 15:01:13 -0500
From: "Charles P. Steinmetz" <charles_steinmetz at lavabit.com>
Subject: Re: [R-390] Torque and Clamps
To: R-390 at mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: <20121109200116.F00ED11BC11 at karen.lavabit.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Glenn wrote:

>There are some torque screwdrivers on ebay, made in China, that look 
>fine for $25.
>Also note the interface of my Utica TS 30 to the Xccellite #6 Fluted 
>Bristol wrench VIA the Xcellite 99PA adapter. This may work with the 
>offshore version as well.

Unfortunately, the eBay unit appears to use bits with round shanks 
and flanges, similar to (but almost certainly incompatible with) the 
Xcelite 99 design -- not 1/4" hex bits.  But at the price, it might 
well be worth buying one to play with.

Here is another possibility, one that I use:

http://www.all-spec.com/products/0490-22.html

It's the Milwaukee 0490-22 cordless screwdriver with an electronic 
torque stop variable from 3.5 to 30 in-lb in both directions.  I have 
three, and mine are extremely repeatable (though not calibrated -- 
the scale runs from 1 to 21 plus lock).  I see the price has risen 
sharply since I bought mine, but they are widely distributed and I 
think you can still find them for less if you look.  I've been using 
"flate rate screwdrivers" for years, and these are by far the best 
I've ever used.  It's not surprising that this model has been in 
production for more than 5 years (in a world where 2 years is almost 
unheard of for products like this).  And, unlike my mechanical 
torque-limiting screwdrivers, I use them almost every day for every 
conceivable kind of project.

IMO, the optimum torque for 390/390A clamps is 4 to 4.5 in-lb.

Best regards,

Charles

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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 11:01:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Glenn <wa4aos at aol.com>
Subject: [R-390] Clamps and Torque
To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: <8CF8D73C578983E-1A50-33D9E at webmail-d166.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

BTW, at this writing there are a number of Utica TS30 Torque Screwdrivers listed 
on ebay for $40 including shipping. They are used and appear to be from an EX 
workforce or application. 

These are EXCELLENT Torque Screwdrivers and you can google the pdf to maintain 
them including calibration methods if you have a torque tester/calibrator. 
There are some offshore torque testers in the $20 range. However, I have NEVER 
seen any indication of my TS30 not being very close to cal. I use to send it to 
a shop in GA for an annual calibration and they always said, "in spec, no 
adjustments required. $25 please".... ( I finally stopped that nose bleed and 
got my own  tester that I use for verification from time to time; I never see a 
problem. 
As mentioned, I paid $160, 15 years ago for my unit and am very pleased. 

 I got to tell you that having a clamp too lose and slip out of alignment or 
equally as bad, too tight and crack a week or two after the receiver is back 
together and back to a customer is a SAD STATE OF AFFAIRS. 
That only happened once about 15 years ago. That receiver went to CA and I'm in 
SC. I paid to have it shipped back in, replaced the clamp and shipped it back on 
my dime. That is when, out of necessity, I started using a torque screwdriver.. 
After the expense of that come-back, I vowed to not make that mistake again and 
I have NEVER cracked a clamp since. Oh, that client has used me since for other 
work. 

Glenn WA4AOS
DSM Labs (dot com)

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 11:59:02 -0500 (EST)
From: Glenn <wa4aos at aol.com>
Subject: [R-390] TS 30 and more
To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: <8CF8D7BD2196552-1A50-34121 at webmail-d166.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi John,

No problem with the question, we are ALL learning here.
As far as I know a TS30 is a TS30, I think you are seeing slight variations in 
the description write-ups. The actual spec is 6-30 in/lb. 
I mentioned some of torque screwdrivers on ebay made in Asia cheap. I may buy 
one and do an A/B comparison. Some of the Asian made stuff these days is very 
well made.
With regard to the Utica units on ebay. I would ask the seller if he can verify 
that the unit is in calibration and does indeed work properly. As mentioned, I 
have never had a cal problem with my unit and I have used it almost daily for 15 
years.

You can google Utica TS30 and get the pdf of the manual. Like a lot of manuals, 
it covers several model numbers but the info is there.

Good luck with your work. There is nothing like carefully going through these 
remarkable feats of engineering to really learn how they work. In the beginning 
I made lots of drawings as I started to take things apart then when digital 
cameras became affordable I bought one and life got even better.

If you are going to be taking the gear train apart, invest in a pair of curved 
tipped hemostats for setting anti-backlash gears. I dipped the tips in liquid 
plastic to prevent marring of the gears. Also, a spring hook is great for 
releasing and re-hooking the springs. If you are aligning the cams to their 
intended hash marks, you need to unhook all of the springs on the cans. 
Otherwise you will NEVER get things to align.

For what it's worth, I use Mobil 1 Synthetic grease and Mobil 1 high viscosity 
oil for the various parts on the gear train.( just a little dab will do ya) 
DON'T cake it on!!!!! Other people like other synthetic oils and greases and 
that's fine, SYNTHETIC is the operative word here. 

I also found a 1oz eyedropper bottle with a little very dry talc inside is a 
PERFECT way to put a little talc in the coil forms to make them slide better and 
never stick. Just make sure it's very dry talc with no perfumes or other junk. I 
don't know if the perfume odor would hurt the coil forms but it certainly would 
not be very MANLY for you when your buds come over to look at your station; it's 
got to smell like a REAL RADIO!!  Hi Hi. 

Let me know if you have other questions. I don't know everything but with the 
collective knowledge on this reflector, you are sure to get answers you need and 
some you never anticipated.. Hi

73,
Glenn WA4AOS
DSM Labs (dot com)

------------------------------

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End of R-390 Digest, Vol 103, Issue 8
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