[R-390] R-390 Digest, Vol 104, Issue 36
Raymond Cote
bluegrassdakine at hotmail.com
Fri Dec 21 13:20:32 EST 2012
I have 5 R/390-a to do and other like-minded Collins gear. May I see a picture?
Ray
Before I came here I was confused about this subject. Having listened to your lecture I am still confused. But on a higher level.
Enrico Fermi
On Dec 21, 2012, at 12:17, "Mack McCormick" <w4ax.mack at gmail.com> wrote:
> Bob,
>
> I found the following method best to clear the gear train without
> disassembly. I've completed two R-390a's with the following method.
>
> 1. Remove the RF deck from the receiver.
> 2. Take it outside and hang just the gear portion of the RF deck off a
> table or other suitable object.
> 3. Use a FULL large can of WD-40 to spray all the gears until most of the
> grease and gunk is removed. WD-40 is mostly Stoddard solvent. Keep WD-40
> off painted surfaces as it will remove some paints/stamps.
> 4. I then use a full can of carburetor cleaner including scrubbing with a
> brush or rag to clean stubborn spots.
> 5. Relubricate with Mobil One synthetic oil. Use a long spout oiler to
> reach inside the gear train.
>
> I've previously posted pictures to this group but will send you a picture
> if you'd like to see the results.
>
> It's not difficult and takes less than an hour. The gears turn smoothly
> after this process.
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 21, 2012 at 12:00 PM, <r-390-request at mailman.qth.net> wrote:
>
>> Send R-390 mailing list submissions to
>> r-390 at mailman.qth.net
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> r-390-request at mailman.qth.net
>>
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> r-390-owner at mailman.qth.net
>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of R-390 digest..."
>>
>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>> 1. Re: SP-600 Recap (chuck.rippel at cox.net)
>> 2. Re: SP-600 Recap (kirklandb at sympatico.ca)
>> 3. Re: SP-600 Recap (Al Parker)
>> 4. R-390A gear train cleaning (Bob Young)
>> 5. Re: SP-600 Recap (Joe Connor)
>> 6. Re: SP-600 Recap (bill kirkland)
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 17:59:48 +0000 (GMT)
>> From: chuck.rippel at cox.net
>> To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [R-390] SP-600 Recap
>> Message-ID: <1cc6a77.1140.13bb9789f49.Webtop.0 at cox.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed; delsp=no
>>
>> Watch the Video before attempting, Watch the Video before attempting,
>> Watch the Video before attempting, Watch the Video before attempting,
>> Watch the Video before attempting, Watch the Video before attempting
>> !!!!
>>
>> Tisha is >absolutely right<, removing the rotating turret from an SP-600
>> has almost zero room for error. Add to that, replacing the capacitors
>> has zero room for error. You'll be doing something like.... 27 or so
>> total. You can't do 5, put the turret back, reconnect the 455 KC IF
>> wires on the side, test your work and keep repeating till the caps are
>> done. Every time you remove the turret, the chances of something
>> breaking increase by an order of magnitude. Break off one of the
>> "fingers," the entire band is done.
>>
>> The capacitor replacements must be accomplished in a single, proper
>> removal of the turrett. You'll want to use all 1KV ceramic disc
>> capacitors in the turrett. As I recall, they are all .01ufd.
>>
>>
>> ---
>> No trees were killed to deliver this message. However, a large number
>> of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
>>
>> Chuck Rippel
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Getting to those caps in the turret on the SP-600 is a pain in the
>>> behind.
>>> Since you are in there you probably want to clean up the contacts on
>>> the
>>> turret and the fingers that the posts slide across. Be really careful,
>>> they
>>> are pretty fragile. If you misalign anything when you are snapping the
>>> little decks back into place you can break fingers off.
>>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 18:28:18 +0000
>> From: <kirklandb at sympatico.ca>
>> To: <chuck.rippel at cox.net>, <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
>> Subject: Re: [R-390] SP-600 Recap
>> Message-ID: <COL109-W2BB5C59DAE1A4DF294AA8CF370 at phx.gbl>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>
>>
>> The turret assembly is quite easy. Drop the bottom plate and you can pull
>> off the individual segments.
>> the spring clips are a little tricky though.
>>
>> The RF deck, i.e. the side of the RF assembly with the tubes in it is
>> another matter.
>>
>> A 45 watt iron really helps, as does the hakko desoldering gun + dental
>> picks.
>>
>> When putting the RF deck back in place, as I recall you want the turret
>> section about 1/2 way
>> between bands so that the fingers do NOT engage the pins.
>>
>> Yes I have broken a finger.
>>
>> The caps in the RF section are all 0.01uf.
>>
>> IF cans have 0.022 and some of the bottom.
>> If they are BBODs keep the 0.022 and sell them to the Audio folks for $15
>> or more (assuming they are decent).
>>
>> nate.html
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 13:59:24 -0500
>> From: Al Parker <anchor at ec.rr.com>
>> To: kirklandb at sympatico.ca
>> Cc: chuck.rippel at cox.net, r-390 at mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [R-390] SP-600 Recap
>> Message-ID: <50D3600C.2070006 at ec.rr.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>>
>> Hi all,
>> I held my tongue on Tisha's initial post, I didn't think she was
>> talking about removing the rotating turret, but figured I'd wait and
>> see. Chuck, we've never met, but I hope we will sometime, now that
>> you're back in "circulation". And, I've never seen your video, tho'
>> have heard lots of good about it.
>> Bill says it right, for me.
>> I have done dozens of SP-600's, but not to the full tear down
>> everything-polish-"restoration" level, I'd rather call my work
>> "refurbishment". Front panels may be stripped & repainted, side plates,
>> chassis, IF cans, etc. cleaned and maybe buffed, whatever I or the owner
>> wants. I have never removed the rotating turret, because I could find
>> no reason to do so. Curved hemostats help on the clips on the removable
>> modules.
>> The RF deck is the one thing that requires care and attention, as
>> Bill
>> stated, particularly setting the band-change to mid-way between bands.
>> Some of the 27 BBOD's are tough to remove without collateral damage.
>> Hakko is my friend there.
>> 73,
>>
>> Al, W8UT
>> www.boatanchors.org
>> www.hammarlund.info
>>
>> "There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
>> worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
>> Ratty, to Mole
>>
>> On 12/20/2012 1:28 PM, kirklandb at sympatico.ca wrote:
>>>
>>> The turret assembly is quite easy. Drop the bottom plate and you can
>> pull off the individual segments.
>>> the spring clips are a little tricky though.
>>>
>>> The RF deck, i.e. the side of the RF assembly with the tubes in it is
>> another matter.
>>>
>>> A 45 watt iron really helps, as does the hakko desoldering gun + dental
>> picks.
>>>
>>> When putting the RF deck back in place, as I recall you want the turret
>> section about 1/2 way
>>> between bands so that the fingers do NOT engage the pins.
>>>
>>> Yes I have broken a finger.
>>>
>>> The caps in the RF section are all 0.01uf.
>>>
>>> IF cans have 0.022 and some of the bottom.
>>> If they are BBODs keep the 0.022 and sell them to the Audio folks for
>> $15 or more (assuming they are decent).
>>>
>>> nate.html
>>>
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>> On 12/20/2012 12:59 PM, chuck.rippel at cox.net wrote:> Watch the Video
>> before attempting, Watch the Video before attempting,
>>> Watch the Video before attempting, Watch the Video before attempting,
>>> Watch the Video before attempting, Watch the Video before attempting !!!!
>>>
>>> Tisha is >absolutely right<, removing the rotating turret from an SP-600
>>> has almost zero room for error. Add to that, replacing the capacitors
>>> has zero room for error. You'll be doing something like.... 27 or so
>>> total. You can't do 5, put the turret back, reconnect the 455 KC IF
>>> wires on the side, test your work and keep repeating till the caps are
>>> done. Every time you remove the turret, the chances of something
>>> breaking increase by an order of magnitude. Break off one of the
>>> "fingers," the entire band is done.
>>>
>>> The capacitor replacements must be accomplished in a single, proper
>>> removal of the turrett. You'll want to use all 1KV ceramic disc
>>> capacitors in the turrett. As I recall, they are all .01ufd.
>>>
>>>
>>> ---
>>> No trees were killed to deliver this message. However, a large number
>>> of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
>>>
>>> Chuck Rippel
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 14:27:03 -0500
>> From: Bob Young <bobyoung53 at hotmail.com>
>> To: "r-390 at mailman.qth.net" <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
>> Subject: [R-390] R-390A gear train cleaning
>> Message-ID: <SNT136-W13C41251964115C067A0AFCC370 at phx.gbl>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>
>>
>> A few weeks ago I asked about pulling the gear train apart to clean it,
>> common concensus seemed to be that it was too much of a PITA and/or it was
>> too tricky of an undertaking for a newbie and to just soak them in some
>> solvent (kerosene?) for a period of time. Do I need to pull the RF deck to
>> do this?
>> Bob Young
>> KB1OKL
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 12:23:22 -0800 (PST)
>> From: Joe Connor <joeconnor53 at yahoo.com>
>> To: "anchor at ec.rr.com" <anchor at ec.rr.com>, "kirklandb at sympatico.ca"
>> <kirklandb at sympatico.ca>
>> Cc: "chuck.rippel at cox.net" <chuck.rippel at cox.net>,
>> "r-390 at mailman.qth.net" <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
>> Subject: Re: [R-390] SP-600 Recap
>> Message-ID:
>> <1356035002.83831.YahooMailNeo at web125506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>>
>> 1.? For those not familiar with them, Al Parker's accounts of his
>> restoration of various receivers, including SP-600s, make fascinating
>> reading.
>>
>> http://www.boatanchors.org/
>>
>> 2. Chuck Rippel's DVD on restoring SP-600s is the best. It sure walked me
>> through my first SP-600. That DVD is well worth the money.
>>
>> ????????????????????????? Joe Connor
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Al Parker <anchor at ec.rr.com>
>>> To: kirklandb at sympatico.ca
>>> Cc: chuck.rippel at cox.net; r-390 at mailman.qth.net
>>> Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 1:59 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [R-390] SP-600 Recap
>>>
>>> Hi all,
>>> ??? I held my tongue on Tisha's initial post, I didn't think she was
>> talking about removing the rotating turret, but figured I'd wait and see.?
>> Chuck, we've never met, but I hope we will sometime, now that you're back
>> in "circulation".? And, I've never seen your video, tho' have heard lots of
>> good about it.
>>> ??? Bill says it right, for me.
>>> ??? I have done dozens of SP-600's, but not to the full tear down
>> everything-polish-"restoration" level, I'd rather call my work
>> "refurbishment".? Front panels may be stripped & repainted, side plates,
>> chassis, IF cans, etc. cleaned and maybe buffed, whatever I or the owner
>> wants.? I have never removed the rotating turret, because I could find no
>> reason to do so.? Curved hemostats help on the clips on the removable
>> modules.
>>> ??? The RF deck is the one thing that requires care and attention, as
>> Bill stated, particularly setting the band-change to mid-way between bands.
>> Some of the 27 BBOD's are tough to remove without collateral damage. Hakko
>> is my friend there.
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> Al, W8UT
>>> www.boatanchors.org
>>> www.hammarlund.info
>>>
>>> "There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
>>> worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
>>> Ratty, to Mole
>>>
>>> On 12/20/2012 1:28 PM, kirklandb at sympatico.ca wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The turret assembly is quite easy. Drop the bottom plate and you can
>> pull off the individual segments.
>>>> ? the spring clips are a little tricky though.
>>>>
>>>> The RF deck, i.e. the side of the RF assembly with the tubes in it is
>> another matter.
>>>>
>>>> A 45 watt iron really helps, as does the hakko desoldering gun + dental
>> picks.
>>>>
>>>> When putting the RF deck back in place, as I recall you want the turret
>> section about 1/2 way
>>>> ? between bands so that the fingers do NOT engage the pins.
>>>>
>>>> Yes I have broken a finger.
>>>>
>>>> The caps in the RF section are all 0.01uf.
>>>>
>>>> IF cans have 0.022 and some of the bottom.
>>>> If they are BBODs keep the 0.022 and sell them to the Audio folks for
>> $15 or more (assuming they are decent).
>>>>
>>>> nate.html
>>>> ? ??? ??? ??? ? ??? ???
>>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> On 12/20/2012 12:59 PM, chuck.rippel at cox.net wrote:> Watch the Video
>> before attempting,? Watch the Video before attempting,
>>>> Watch the Video before attempting, Watch the Video before attempting,
>>>> Watch the Video before attempting, Watch the Video before attempting
>> !!!!
>>>>
>>>> Tisha is >absolutely right<, removing the rotating turret from an SP-600
>>>> has almost zero room for error.? Add to that, replacing the capacitors
>>>> has zero room for error.? You'll be doing something like.... 27 or so
>>>> total.? You can't do 5, put the turret back, reconnect the 455 KC IF
>>>> wires on the side, test your work and keep repeating till the caps are
>>>> done.? Every time you remove the turret, the chances of something
>>>> breaking increase by an order of magnitude.? Break off one of the
>>>> "fingers," the entire band is done.
>>>>
>>>> The capacitor replacements must be accomplished in a single, proper
>>>> removal of the turrett.? You'll want to use all 1KV ceramic disc
>>>> capacitors in the turrett.? As I recall, they are all .01ufd.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ---
>>>> No? trees were killed to deliver this message.? However, a large number
>>>> of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
>>>>
>>>> Chuck Rippel
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> R-390 mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:R-390 at mailman.qth.net
>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 22:02:15 -0500
>> From: bill kirkland <kirklandb at sympatico.ca>
>> To: <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
>> Subject: Re: [R-390] SP-600 Recap
>> Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP72EC3BE46B3C9FCCE67736CF360 at phx.gbl>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> Funny that I am replying to the r-390 list about a sp-600...
>>
>> A couple of things I've found very helpful while desoldering...
>>
>> If it is a wire lead, or I've cut the component lead, wiggling it while I
>> Hakko gun sucks the solder
>> Helps break the grip of any residual solder.
>>
>> Sharp, flush cutting side cutters can often get in between the end of a
>> wire
>> lead and the solder post.
>> This allows you to pry the end of the lead away from the post. Then you can
>> unwrap it with needle nose pliers
>> -- after solder sucking.
>>
>> Dental picks can help pry as well.
>>
>> Using the right wattage soldering iron. Modern "low wattage" ones require
>> don't have enough humpf to
>> Metal all the solder. Esp true for the SP-600 RF deck as some of the
>> ground
>> leads are soldered to the
>> Metal partitions of the tuning cap array.
>>
>> I've haven't done this but have thought about grinding down a set of
>> haemostats so that they can be clipped
>> Onto a wire lead to act as a heat sink.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Al Parker [mailto:anchor at ec.rr.com]
>> Sent: December-20-12 1:59 PM
>> To: kirklandb at sympatico.ca
>> Cc: chuck.rippel at cox.net; r-390 at mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [R-390] SP-600 Recap
>>
>> Hi all,
>> I held my tongue on Tisha's initial post, I didn't think she was
>> talking about removing the rotating turret, but figured I'd wait and see.
>> Chuck, we've never met, but I hope we will sometime, now that you're back
>> in
>> "circulation". And, I've never seen your video, tho'
>> have heard lots of good about it.
>> Bill says it right, for me.
>> I have done dozens of SP-600's, but not to the full tear down
>> everything-polish-"restoration" level, I'd rather call my work
>> "refurbishment". Front panels may be stripped & repainted, side plates,
>> chassis, IF cans, etc. cleaned and maybe buffed, whatever I or the owner
>> wants. I have never removed the rotating turret, because I could find no
>> reason to do so. Curved hemostats help on the clips on the removable
>> modules.
>> The RF deck is the one thing that requires care and attention, as
>> Bill stated, particularly setting the band-change to mid-way between bands.
>> Some of the 27 BBOD's are tough to remove without collateral damage.
>> Hakko is my friend there.
>> 73,
>>
>> Al, W8UT
>> www.boatanchors.org
>> www.hammarlund.info
>>
>> "There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as
>> simply messing about in boats"
>> Ratty, to Mole
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> R-390 mailing list
>> R-390 at mailman.qth.net
>> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
>>
>>
>> End of R-390 Digest, Vol 104, Issue 36
>> **************************************
>>
>
>
>
> --
> 73,
>
> Mack de W4AX
> http://w4ax.com
> ______________________________________________________________
> R-390 mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:R-390 at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
More information about the R-390
mailing list