[R-390] Soldering Litz wire

rbethman rbethman at comcast.net
Fri Apr 8 15:06:52 EDT 2011


Gee - I wonder how this works for working cast iron pipe joints with oakum?

I still do that from time to time.  It HAS gotten less frequent.  One 
good plumber, a young sprout in his 30s, comes get me when he runs 
across these old homes.

I do live in Historic Manassas, Virginia.  We've got some *very* old 
homes, AND businesses in the "Old-Towne" zone.

Trying to re-work these historic buildings causes a lot of consternation!

We've still got the old blowtorch that you let the fuel seep out into 
the trough to preheat too!

Try that with the Silver Bearing stuff.  I sure would NOT want to pay 
the bill!  However, when they cut us off at the knees, the re-work is 
going to skyrocket!

Bob - N0DGN

On 4/8/2011 3:08 AM, 2002tii wrote:
>
> The new high-temperature synthetic enamels are much tougher, and the
> "old ways" of the home constructor don't work so well nowadays (at
> least with new wire).
>
> The way it is done in industry is with a solder pot -- a little
> electrically-heated crucible that keeps a small amount (anywhere from
> 2 oz to 1 lb) of solder melted and up to temperature, so you just dip
> the end of the wire in and wait a few seconds.  Once you've used one,
> you'll be hooked -- and not just for Litz wire, for all tinning
> jobs.  For Litz wire, I generally dip for 5-10 seconds depending on
> gauge and stranding, then dip the tinned end in the most active RA
> flux I can find, then back in the solder pot for 3-5 seconds.  For
> uncoated wire, I dip in flux then into the pot for 2-4 seconds, or
> perhaps a bit longer for things like un-tinned 400-strand 12 gauge.
>
> You have to stir in some flux (not necessarily rosin, but that's what
> I usually use), and skim the dross, every now and then.
>
> It is best to use only non lead-bearing solder in pots (and, for that
> matter, on the bench generally), unless you have your ventilation
> thoroughly worked out.  I have used Sn96/Ag4 solder exclusively since
> the early '80s.  Not only does it avoid toxic lead vapor, it is also
> much stronger than Sn60/Pb40 or Sn63/Pb37.  Like Sn63/Pb37, it is eutectic.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Don



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