[R-390] Re: R-390 Digest, Vol 56, Issue 21, new cleaning technology
bonddaleena at aol.com
bonddaleena at aol.com
Tue Dec 9 19:04:03 EST 2008
If you want the panel 'clean' with NO damage, have it 'soda blasted'.
Yes, these companies use a coarse version of good 'ole baking soda. I
saw the results at the recent "Turkey Rod Run" in Daytona, Fl. I has
seen it used on various TV car programs. However, this vendor had
samples of Glass Beaded sheet metal and 'Soda Blasted". No contest!
Soda's the way to go!!! (and I have a large glass beader!!)
ron
N4UE
-----Original Message-----
From: r-390-request at mailman.qth.net
To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 11:40 am
Subject: R-390 Digest, Vol 56, Issue 21
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: front panel restoration (Paul Anderson)
2. Re: front panel restoration (Jerry K)
3. RE: front panel restoration (Bruce Mac Lellan)
4. WWV Standards and other sources (sdaitch at kuw.ibb.gov)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 09:40:38 -0500
From: "Paul Anderson" <paul at pdq.com>
Subject: Re: [R-390] front panel restoration
To: "Cecil Acuff" <chacuff at cableone.net>
Cc: W9RAN at oneradio.net, r390 list <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
Message-ID:
<ee957a250812090640s2403af53ye2b9a05be90c6701 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I use aircraft paint stripper on the front panel and on the knobs to
remove what will come off, and soften the rest, then plastic media
blast the remainder. Rather than resorting to bead blasting, I will
put another layer of paint stripper on.
Most any metal, sand or glass media will start pushing metal around,
which you don't really want if the panel is engraved. If it is not
engraved, it matters less.
I never had problems with paint stripper getting on the back of the
panel and removing paint that I didn't want to - I was just careful
not to glob it on the back while brash brushing off the residue.
Paul
On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 8:01 AM, Cecil Acuff <chacuff at cableone.net>
wrote:
> Not sure what it would do on a steel panel..will use it on my SX-28A
> project....but it does "Expand" the metal enough on an aluminum panel
to
> cause a change in shape.
>
> Cecil
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Nickels"
<ranickel at comcast.net>
> To: "Cecil Acuff" <chacuff at cableone.net>
> Cc: <odyslim at comcast.net>; "r390 list" <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 10:30 PM
> Subject: Re: [R-390] front panel restoration
>
>
>> Cecil Acuff wrote:
>>>
>>> You have to go easy around the engravings.
>>>
>> I wouldn't use my bead blaster for just that reason, although I can't
>> imagine it producing sufficient force to warp a 1/8" thick steel
panel! I've
>> always had good luck with chemical strippers but still end up
sanding panels
>> before painting.
>>
>> I think Hank Arney will confirm that the professional surface
treatment is
>> called a "Timesaver". This is actually the name of the company that
makes
>> the Timesaver machines, which are essentially very large belt
sanders.
>> Running a panel through a Timesaver is roughly the same as running a
piece
>> of wood through a surface planer, only much less metal is removed.
With
>> proper setup a very smooth, flat surface results, without damaging
the
>> engraving. In fact, the machine leaves a "grain" that helps paint
adhere,
>> or in the case of aluminum, makes for an attractive finish when
anodized
>> (what most of us would call "brushed aluminum").
>>
>> I've not done it with an R-390 panel (yet) but I have used a wood
shop
>> type belt sander for the same purpose. For a less aggressive
approach, a
>> random orbital sander works really well and doesn't leave a "grainy"
>> appearance. Velcro-back sandpaper in different grits can take you
from
>> rough removal down to the finish you want.
>>
>> 73, Bob W9RAN
>>
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> R-390 mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
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>
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2008 09:06:04 -0600
From: Jerry K <w5kp at hughes.net>
Subject: Re: [R-390] front panel restoration
To: r390 list <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
Cc: r390 list <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
Message-ID: <493E895C.2080100 at hughes.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Lots of ways to do this, and to me blasting is one of the least
desirable. Hank Arney's setup is probably hands down the best method
there is, but of course he does panels by the hundreds. For us poor
onesies-twosies guys who must do things the hard (cheap) way, Jet Strip
is the only thing that has worked for me. Other than O'Reilly's Auto
Parts, it's available on several automotive/industrial products
websites
such as this one:
http://www.autobodymaster.com/product_list.jsp?PHPRJ_GROUP_ID=44073
Enjoy your shop time, there's never enough of it!
73, Jerry W5KP
Paul Anderson wrote:
> I use aircraft paint stripper on the front panel and on the knobs to
> remove what will come off, and soften the rest, then plastic media
> blast the remainder. Rather than resorting to bead blasting, I will
> put another layer of paint stripper on.
>
> Most any metal, sand or glass media will start pushing metal around,
> which you don't really want if the panel is engraved. If it is not
> engraved, it matters less.
>
> I never had problems with paint stripper getting on the back of the
> panel and removing paint that I didn't want to - I was just careful
> not to glob it on the back while brash brushing off the residue.
>
> Paul
>
> On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 8:01 AM, Cecil Acuff <chacuff at cableone.net>
wrote:
>
>> Not sure what it would do on a steel panel..will use it on my SX-28A
>> project....but it does "Expand" the metal enough on an aluminum
panel to
>> cause a change in shape.
>>
>> Cecil
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Nickels"
<ranickel at comcast.net>
>> To: "Cecil Acuff" <chacuff at cableone.net>
>> Cc: <odyslim at comcast.net>; "r390 list" <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
>> Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 10:30 PM
>> Subject: Re: [R-390] front panel restoration
>>
>>
>>
>>> Cecil Acuff wrote:
>>>
>>>> You have to go easy around the engravings.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I wouldn't use my bead blaster for just that reason, although I
can't
>>> imagine it producing sufficient force to warp a 1/8" thick steel
panel! I've
>>> always had good luck with chemical strippers but still end up
sanding panels
>>> before painting.
>>>
>>> I think Hank Arney will confirm that the professional surface
treatment is
>>> called a "Timesaver". This is actually the name of the company that
makes
>>> the Timesaver machines, which are essentially very large belt
sanders.
>>> Running a panel through a Timesaver is roughly the same as running
a piece
>>> of wood through a surface planer, only much less metal is removed.
With
>>> proper setup a very smooth, flat surface results, without damaging
the
>>> engraving. In fact, the machine leaves a "grain" that helps paint
adhere,
>>> or in the case of aluminum, makes for an attractive finish when
anodized
>>> (what most of us would call "brushed aluminum").
>>>
>>> I've not done it with an R-390 panel (yet) but I have used a wood
shop
>>> type belt sander for the same purpose. For a less aggressive
approach, a
>>> random orbital sander works really well and doesn't leave a "grainy"
>>> appearance. Velcro-back sandpaper in different grits can take you
from
>>> rough removal down to the finish you want.
>>>
>>> 73, Bob W9RAN
>>>
>>>
>> _____________________________________________________________
>> R-390 mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/faq.htm
>> Post: mailto:R-390 at mailman.qth.net
>> Unsubscribe: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/options/r-390
>>
>>
> _____________________________________________________________
> R-390 mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
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>
>
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 11:24:43 -0500
From: Bruce Mac Lellan <brumac11 at hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [R-390] front panel restoration
To: <w5kp at hughes.net>, <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
Message-ID: <BLU141-W36DC5358CD69874377CBBEC5FA0 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Jerry,
I agree that the best way to remove that old and hard paint is with a
paint
remover. I have had excellent results by just using automotive brake
fluid.
I tape off the holes from the back of the panel and set it on blocks to
be
pretty much level, them apply a good coat of the brake fluid and go
away for a
day or two. A second application may be necessary. I use a wooden stick
to
clean out the engraving. When it's ready to paint, wipe it down with
white
vinager, a thin coat of zinc chromate and then the finish of your
choice.
This works well for me and the brake fluid is much less expensive than
aircraft
paint remover.
Bruce > Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 09:06:04 -0600> From: w5kp at hughes.net>
To:
r-390 at mailman.qth.net> CC: r-390 at mailman.qth.net> Subject: Re: [R-390]
front
panel restoration> > Lots of ways to do this, and to me blasting is one
of the
least > desirable. Hank Arney's setup is probably hands down the best
method >
there is, but of course he does panels by the hundreds. For us poor >
onesies-twosies guys who must do things the hard (cheap) way, Jet Strip
> is the
only thing that has worked for me. Other than O'Reilly's Auto > Parts,
it's
available on several automotive/industrial products websites > such as
this
one:> >
http://www.autobodymaster.com/product_list.jsp?PHPRJ_GROUP_ID=44073> >
Enjoy your shop time, there's never enough of it!> 73, Jerry W5KP> > >
Paul
Anderson wrote:> > I use aircraft paint stripper on the front panel and
on the
knobs to> > remove what will come off, and soften the rest, then
plastic media>
> blast the remainder. Rather than resorting to bead blasting
, I will> > put another layer of paint stripper on.> >> > Most any
metal, sand
or glass media will start pushing metal around,> > which you don't
really want
if the panel is engraved. If it is not> > engraved, it matters less.>
>> > I
never had problems with paint stripper getting on the back of the> >
panel and
removing paint that I didn't want to - I was just careful> > not to
glob it on
the back while brash brushing off the residue.> >> > Paul> >> > On Tue,
Dec 9,
2008 at 8:01 AM, Cecil Acuff <chacuff at cableone.net> wrote:> > > >> Not
sure what
it would do on a steel panel..will use it on my SX-28A> >>
project....but it
does "Expand" the metal enough on an aluminum panel to> >> cause a
change in
shape.> >>> >> Cecil> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert
Nickels"
<ranickel at comcast.net>> >> To: "Cecil Acuff" <chacuff at cableone.net>> >>
Cc:
<odyslim at comcast.net>; "r390 list" <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>> >> Sent:
Monday,
December 08, 2008 10:30 PM> >> Subject: Re: [R-390]
front panel restoration> >>> >>> >> > >>> Cecil Acuff wrote:> >>> >
>>>> You
have to go easy around the engravings.> >>>>> >>>> > >>> I wouldn't use
my bead
blaster for just that reason, although I can't> >>> imagine it
producing
sufficient force to warp a 1/8" thick steel panel! I've> >>> always had
good
luck with chemical strippers but still end up sanding panels> >>>
before
painting.> >>>> >>> I think Hank Arney will confirm that the
professional
surface treatment is> >>> called a "Timesaver". This is actually the
name of the
company that makes> >>> the Timesaver machines, which are essentially
very large
belt sanders.> >>> Running a panel through a Timesaver is roughly the
same as
running a piece> >>> of wood through a surface planer, only much less
metal is
removed. With> >>> proper setup a very smooth, flat surface results,
without
damaging the> >>> engraving. In fact, the machine leaves a "grain" that
helps
paint adhere,> >>> or in the case of aluminum, makes for an a
ttractive finish when anodized> >>> (what most of us would call
"brushed
aluminum").> >>>> >>> I've not done it with an R-390 panel (yet) but I
have used
a wood shop> >>> type belt sander for the same purpose. For a less
aggressive
approach, a> >>> random orbital sander works really well and doesn't
leave a
"grainy"> >>> appearance. Velcro-back sandpaper in different grits can
take you
from> >>> rough removal down to the finish you want.> >>>> >>> 73, Bob
W9RAN>
>>>> >>> > >>
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------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2008 11:34:09 -0500
From: sdaitch at kuw.ibb.gov
Subject: [R-390] WWV Standards and other sources
To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: <3d9c2be9.2be93d9c at KUW.IBB.GOV>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
"he American Military has run planet wide RF communications and
reportedly off
planet communications with R390's, TS505s, TS352s, TEK 505s, and
AN/URM25's
since the 1950s."
While that might have been correct years back, interestingly enough,
digital
comms these days may require far greater frequency stability than
produced by
any of the other equipment.
This might be dated a bit, but some years ago, the USAF had upgraded an
in-country
telephone network from an analog based system to a digital system,
using
Rockwell
MDR-8 radios and FCC-98 mux systems. The plan was to have LORAN
receviers at
each
radio and MUX terminal to keep the digital system in time and reduce
the jitter
on
the network. At one terminal point, with multiple radios, there was so
much RF
generated by other equipment, the LORAN unit would not lock up to the
signal
properly and output a stable timebase for the terminal. The owners of
the
system
brought in an older HP cesium beam standard, and that cured all the
problems.
Similarly, my employer has used GPS based time references to stabilize
digital
networks
used for our older digital audio distribution system. While it is
possible to
develop the digital timebase data from the incoming digital signals,
with
multiple
sources, the time base jitter can be the source of bit errors. Using an
external
timebase, with far greater stability, to drive all the in-house
equipment,
reduced
the bit error rate on our incoming signals and virtually eliminated the
losses
of
program audio due to time base slippage.
of course, YMMV,
73
Sheldon
------------------------------
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