[R-390] More PTO pics

[n4buq at knology.net]

I checked that solder joint at lunch.  It's in a lot better shape than that 
picture makes it out to be.  Must be the angle or lighting.  I think what 
is the appearance of a "hole" in the loop may be flux.

I did pull the can back as far as I could without disconnecting any wires 
the other evening.  The innards are wrapped in an insulating material.  
Anyone know if this stuff is safe?  I assume it's the same as the 
insulation around the crystal deck's heater and I've been told that's just 
fiberglass (no asbestos), but was just wondering.  It will make repacking 
it messy should I ever need to go in there.

Barry - N4BUQ

On Thu, 18 May 2006 07:50:36 -0500, "Cecil Acuff" <chacuff at cableone.net> 
wrote :

> I'd agree with that....I see no flow at all...even can almost see through 
> the loop on the left side of the pin....
> 
> Good catch....
> 
> Cecil...
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "KC8OPP Roger S." <kc8opp at yahoo.com>
> To: "Barry" <n4buq at knology.net>
> Cc: <R-390 at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 5:32 AM
> Subject: Re: [R-390] More PTO pics
> 
> 
> > Barry,
> >
> > When I look at the pictures, especially PTO4 I wonder
> > if tube pin #7 is a little shy on solder.
> >
> > Good Pics, hope you get this PTO working.
> >
> > 73's
> > Roger
> > KC8OPP
> >
> > --- Barry <n4buq at knology.net> wrote:
> >
> >> I put some more hi-res pictures on the website
> >>
> >> www.knology.net/~thelanding
> >>
> >> They are large (~1.5MB) files, though.
> >>
> >> I'm curious about the "feedthrough" clamping device
> >> in PTO5.JPG.  Does
> >> anyone know if unscrewing this will release the
> >> coaxial cable?  I want to
> >> replace the cable, but I'm not sure how this "clamp"
> >> is disassembled.
> >>
> >> I did a little testing on that capacitor lead
> >> tonight.  A very slight
> >> pressure on it would cause it to fully touch the
> >> frame.  I could slide some
> >> dental floss under it, but I could feel a slight
> >> pressure as it slid under
> >> the wire so that gives you some indication of just
> >> how close it was to the
> >> frame.
> >>
> >> I moved the capacitor lead well away from the frame
> >> and tested the PTO.
> >> After calibrating my 'scope (it was reading just a
> >> bit low), and measuring
> >> the output with a scope probe (instead of with a
> >> direct connection with
> >> RG-58 coax), I'm seeing 4.8V peak-to-peak now.  This
> >> is an improvement over
> >> what I was seeing.  Part of this was due to my
> >> incorrect measurement
> >> methods, part of it was calibration issues, and part
> >> of it may have been
> >> that lead so close to the frame.  I'm thinking it
> >> wouldn't be worth it to
> >> rebuild the thing at this point.  I might see 5 or 6
> >> volts if I did, but I
> >> might not and it's not worth risking those little
> >> irreplacable solder posts
> >> to find out.  I *might* replace the 2.2k simply
> >> because they have a bad
> >> reputation for going high (this one is a little high
> >> already) and I have a
> >> 2W replacement that would ensure good operation for
> >> a long time to come.
> >>
> >> Anyways, thanks to all for "listening" to me.  It's
> >> been "fun", but I think
> >> I'm going to move on to other parts of this
> >> restoration project.
> >>
> >> Barry - N4BUQ
> >>
> >>
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