[R-390] More PTO pics

n4buq at knology.net n4buq at knology.net
Thu May 18 09:22:16 EDT 2006


I noticed that last night when I put the pictures on the computer and saw 
them "full size".  I didn't notice that with my bare eyes or under the 
magnifier.  I'll probably give that pin a touch-up.

A poor cathode connection could certainly be an issue with low drive in 
this circuit.

Thanks,

Barry - N4BUQ

On Thu, 18 May 2006 07:50:36 -0500, "Cecil Acuff" <chacuff at cableone.net> 
wrote :

> I'd agree with that....I see no flow at all...even can almost see through 
> the loop on the left side of the pin....
> 
> Good catch....
> 
> Cecil...
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "KC8OPP Roger S." <kc8opp at yahoo.com>
> To: "Barry" <n4buq at knology.net>
> Cc: <R-390 at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 5:32 AM
> Subject: Re: [R-390] More PTO pics
> 
> 
> > Barry,
> >
> > When I look at the pictures, especially PTO4 I wonder
> > if tube pin #7 is a little shy on solder.
> >
> > Good Pics, hope you get this PTO working.
> >
> > 73's
> > Roger
> > KC8OPP
> >
> > --- Barry <n4buq at knology.net> wrote:
> >
> >> I put some more hi-res pictures on the website
> >>
> >> www.knology.net/~thelanding
> >>
> >> They are large (~1.5MB) files, though.
> >>
> >> I'm curious about the "feedthrough" clamping device
> >> in PTO5.JPG.  Does
> >> anyone know if unscrewing this will release the
> >> coaxial cable?  I want to
> >> replace the cable, but I'm not sure how this "clamp"
> >> is disassembled.
> >>
> >> I did a little testing on that capacitor lead
> >> tonight.  A very slight
> >> pressure on it would cause it to fully touch the
> >> frame.  I could slide some
> >> dental floss under it, but I could feel a slight
> >> pressure as it slid under
> >> the wire so that gives you some indication of just
> >> how close it was to the
> >> frame.
> >>
> >> I moved the capacitor lead well away from the frame
> >> and tested the PTO.
> >> After calibrating my 'scope (it was reading just a
> >> bit low), and measuring
> >> the output with a scope probe (instead of with a
> >> direct connection with
> >> RG-58 coax), I'm seeing 4.8V peak-to-peak now.  This
> >> is an improvement over
> >> what I was seeing.  Part of this was due to my
> >> incorrect measurement
> >> methods, part of it was calibration issues, and part
> >> of it may have been
> >> that lead so close to the frame.  I'm thinking it
> >> wouldn't be worth it to
> >> rebuild the thing at this point.  I might see 5 or 6
> >> volts if I did, but I
> >> might not and it's not worth risking those little
> >> irreplacable solder posts
> >> to find out.  I *might* replace the 2.2k simply
> >> because they have a bad
> >> reputation for going high (this one is a little high
> >> already) and I have a
> >> 2W replacement that would ensure good operation for
> >> a long time to come.
> >>
> >> Anyways, thanks to all for "listening" to me.  It's
> >> been "fun", but I think
> >> I'm going to move on to other parts of this
> >> restoration project.
> >>
> >> Barry - N4BUQ
> >>
> >>
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