[Premium-Rx] Lubricants for electronics
G8JCF
g8jcf at g8jcfsdr.dyndns.org
Fri Oct 24 20:31:32 EDT 2014
The graphite based lubricants are, IMHO, a very bad idea for rotary
encoders. If the stuff ever got inside the encoder, the encoder would be
ruined.
PTFE spray is the safest and best lubricant.
Peter (GM8JCF)
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Lubricants for electronics (Gary Geissinger)
2. Re: Lubricants for electronics (ONL4234)
3. Re: Lubricants for electronics (W4NJ)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 18:13:25 +0000
From: Gary Geissinger <ggeissinger at digitalglobe.com>
To: "premium-rx at mailman.qth.net" <premium-rx at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Premium-Rx] Lubricants for electronics
Message-ID: <D757DB74-1CAE-40C3-A9CE-5C2D5D4ADFB2 at digitalglobe.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I have been restoring aircraft radio gear from WW-2. Often these include
dynamotors that need to have the bearings cleaned and lubricated. After
considerable research tracking through old and new military specifications I
have settled on AeroShell 33 grease for bearings, gears, slide plates, and
bushings. First the old lubricant must be removed using Stoddard Solvent
which in reality is little more than kerosene. Isopropanol also removes many
lubricants as well.
I have been using AeroShell 33 on the appropriate locations in SP-600 and
R-390 receivers as well. It doesn't take much and certainly reduces
friction and wear while it "stays put." I haven't seen the migration that
silicone based lubricants exhibit. It is synthetic Lithium grease and so
far hasn't damaged any non metallic items I have tested. By military
specification it doesn't smell "rancid" like many common lubricants do.
Aircraft Spruce sells AeroShell 33 in rational quantities (tube for grease
gun). I bought a can of solvent from NAPA (big can). I spoke with a
chemist with the company who formulates the solvent for NAPA. He finally
admitted that is essentially Stoddard Solvent.
Gary WA0SPM, member US Army MARS
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 24, 2014, at 11:52 AM, "Peter Gottlieb" <hpnpilot at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Interesting, thank you.
>
> Peter
>
>
>> On 10/24/2014 1:49 PM, watkins-johnson at terryo.org wrote:
>> My two preferred lubricants for electronics are Mobil 1 for places
>> requiring a thin lubricant that doesn't squeeze out and Phil Woods
>> Waterproof Grease (designed for bicycles) for places requiring a
>> thicker lubricant.
>>
>> I started using Mobil 1after a tip from the R-390 users group. In my
>> experience with multiple premium receivers it doesn't creep onto
>> surrounding surfaces. I would use this on a tuning shaft any day.
>>
>> I first used the Phil Woods Grease while rebuilding my second R-389
>> (I was young, strong, and foolish once), which has the most leaden
>> manual tuning knob of any receiver I've ever owned. It didn't work
>> miracles but the tuning was much better than the first one I rebuilt.
>>
>> Once of the stranger lubricant tricks I ever picked up was from a
>> guitar amp technician. If you have a noisy and irreplaceable
>> potentiometer, Lock-Ease graphite lock spray works great for filling
>> in the noisy pits on a degrading pot. The trick is to use it
>> sparingly and infrequently. This is a tip that can go bad in
>> electronic circuits in a hurry, but sometimes it's the only option.
>>
>> Terry O'
>> http://watkins-Johnson.terryo.org
>> http://BlackRadios.terryo.org
>>
>>
>>> Hi Boris!
>>> I would caution against using silicone spray in electronics: When
>>> I was in industry, it was explained to me that silicones can break
>>> down into lesser products, i.e. Silicon Dioxide (SiO2), or sand! It
>>> might be permissible to use it on a shaft, but I would rather use
>>> something like Kroil, or another penetrating oil to get a stuck part
>>> moving, then gradually work more light oil into it to flush out
>>> rust, and afterwards use a drop or two of heavy synthetic oil. Just my
two cents worth...
>>> 73, Tom Herman, PhD., CETma. N1BEC/7
>>>
>>>> From: ua3mcj at mail.ru
>>>> To: cfuller1 at gmail.com
>>>> Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 08:39:21 +0400
>>>> CC: Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>>>> Subject: Re: [Premium-Rx] Collins HF-2050
>>>>
>>>> Hello Chris,
>>>>
>>>> At first find location of bearing in main tuning shaft, spray it
>>>> with Silicone Spray, rotate knob back and forth some few minutes it
>>>> became ease to move after that.
>>>> Then add few drops of synthetic oil ( oil must NOT became dry with
>>>> the time).
>>>>
>>>> Make some inspection, probably few more bearings there, if so do
>>>> the same with them.
>>>>
>>>> Also check for rust in the shafts sleeves there, if yes, use rust
>>>> remover.
>>>> Remove dust, dirt with pressed air if compressor available. Remove
>>>> all old, dryed grease if used in and replace with fresh one...Then
>>>> enjoy with smooth tuning knob rotation...
>>>>
>>>> B.R.
>>>> Boris
>>>> UA3MCJ
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>>>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net Help Contact eMail:
>>>> paul at 8zo.com Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net Help Contact eMail:
>>> paul at 8zo.com Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net Help Contact eMail:
>> paul at 8zo.com Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Premium-Rx mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net Help Contact eMail:
> paul at 8zo.com Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 20:22:15 +0200
From: "ONL4234" <ONL4234 at telenet.be>
To: <premium-rx at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Premium-Rx] Lubricants for electronics
Message-ID: <3C76CE5B17DE405A8E9A8E47878825E3 at PCvanPeter>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
A puff of pure graphite powder into a recalcitrant & irreplaceable old
potentiometer will indeed work wonders.
Peter De Coninck ONL4234 aka AmpDoctor
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Geissinger" <ggeissinger at digitalglobe.com>
To: <premium-rx at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Premium-Rx] Lubricants for electronics
>I have been restoring aircraft radio gear from WW-2. Often these include
>dynamotors that need to have the bearings cleaned and lubricated. After
>considerable research tracking through old and new military specifications
>I have settled on AeroShell 33 grease for bearings, gears, slide plates,
>and bushings. First the old lubricant must be removed using Stoddard
>Solvent which in reality is little more than kerosene. Isopropanol also
>removes many lubricants as well.
>
> I have been using AeroShell 33 on the appropriate locations in SP-600 and
> R-390 receivers as well. It doesn't take much and certainly reduces
> friction and wear while it "stays put." I haven't seen the migration that
> silicone based lubricants exhibit. It is synthetic Lithium grease and so
> far hasn't damaged any non metallic items I have tested. By military
> specification it doesn't smell "rancid" like many common lubricants do.
>
> Aircraft Spruce sells AeroShell 33 in rational quantities (tube for grease
> gun). I bought a can of solvent from NAPA (big can). I spoke with a
> chemist with the company who formulates the solvent for NAPA. He finally
> admitted that is essentially Stoddard Solvent.
>
> Gary WA0SPM, member US Army MARS
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 24, 2014, at 11:52 AM, "Peter Gottlieb" <hpnpilot at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Interesting, thank you.
>>
>> Peter
>>
>>
>>> On 10/24/2014 1:49 PM, watkins-johnson at terryo.org wrote:
>>> My two preferred lubricants for electronics are Mobil 1 for places
>>> requiring a thin lubricant that doesn't squeeze out and Phil Woods
>>> Waterproof Grease (designed for bicycles) for places requiring a thicker
>>> lubricant.
>>>
>>> I started using Mobil 1after a tip from the R-390 users group. In my
>>> experience with multiple premium receivers it doesn't creep onto
>>> surrounding surfaces. I would use this on a tuning shaft any day.
>>>
>>> I first used the Phil Woods Grease while rebuilding my second R-389 (I
>>> was
>>> young, strong, and foolish once), which has the most leaden manual
>>> tuning
>>> knob of any receiver I've ever owned. It didn't work miracles but the
>>> tuning was much better than the first one I rebuilt.
>>>
>>> Once of the stranger lubricant tricks I ever picked up was from a guitar
>>> amp technician. If you have a noisy and irreplaceable potentiometer,
>>> Lock-Ease graphite lock spray works great for filling in the noisy pits
>>> on
>>> a degrading pot. The trick is to use it sparingly and infrequently.
>>> This
>>> is a tip that can go bad in electronic circuits in a hurry, but
>>> sometimes
>>> it's the only option.
>>>
>>> Terry O'
>>> http://watkins-Johnson.terryo.org
>>> http://BlackRadios.terryo.org
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hi Boris!
>>>> I would caution against using silicone spray in electronics: When I
>>>> was
>>>> in industry, it was explained to me that silicones can break down into
>>>> lesser products, i.e. Silicon Dioxide (SiO2), or sand! It might be
>>>> permissible to use it on a shaft, but I would rather use something like
>>>> Kroil, or another penetrating oil to get a stuck part moving, then
>>>> gradually work more light oil into it to flush out rust, and afterwards
>>>> use a drop or two of heavy synthetic oil. Just my two cents worth...
>>>> 73, Tom Herman, PhD., CETma. N1BEC/7
>>>>
>>>>> From: ua3mcj at mail.ru
>>>>> To: cfuller1 at gmail.com
>>>>> Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 08:39:21 +0400
>>>>> CC: Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Premium-Rx] Collins HF-2050
>>>>>
>>>>> Hello Chris,
>>>>>
>>>>> At first find location of bearing in main tuning shaft, spray it with
>>>>> Silicone Spray, rotate knob back and forth some few minutes it became
>>>>> ease to move after that.
>>>>> Then add few drops of synthetic oil ( oil must NOT became dry with
>>>>> the
>>>>> time).
>>>>>
>>>>> Make some inspection, probably few more bearings there, if so do the
>>>>> same with them.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also check for rust in the shafts sleeves there, if yes, use rust
>>>>> remover.
>>>>> Remove dust, dirt with pressed air if compressor available. Remove all
>>>>> old, dryed grease if used in and replace with fresh one...Then enjoy
>>>>> with smooth tuning knob rotation...
>>>>>
>>>>> B.R.
>>>>> Boris
>>>>> UA3MCJ
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>>>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>>>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>>>>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>>>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>>>>> Help Contact eMail: paul at 8zo.com
>>>>> Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
>>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>>>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>>>> Help Contact eMail: paul at 8zo.com
>>>> Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
>>>
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>>> Help Contact eMail: paul at 8zo.com
>>> Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>> Help Contact eMail: paul at 8zo.com
>> Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
> ______________________________________________________________
> Premium-Rx mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
> Help Contact eMail: paul at 8zo.com
> Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 16:09:27 -0400
From: W4NJ <w4nj at tampabay.rr.com>
To: premium-rx at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Premium-Rx] Lubricants for electronics
Message-ID: <55A76E93-FE1B-4741-93C2-4F120DF26CE8 at tampabay.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Please stop with all these lubricant posts! My wife is wondering what the
heck is going on with Premium Receiver collectors!
On Oct 24, 2014, at 2:22 PM, ONL4234 <ONL4234 at telenet.be> wrote:
> A puff of pure graphite powder into a recalcitrant & irreplaceable old
potentiometer will indeed work wonders.
>
> Peter De Coninck ONL4234 aka AmpDoctor
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Geissinger"
<ggeissinger at digitalglobe.com>
> To: <premium-rx at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 8:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [Premium-Rx] Lubricants for electronics
>
>
>> I have been restoring aircraft radio gear from WW-2. Often these include
dynamotors that need to have the bearings cleaned and lubricated. After
considerable research tracking through old and new military specifications I
have settled on AeroShell 33 grease for bearings, gears, slide plates, and
bushings. First the old lubricant must be removed using Stoddard Solvent
which in reality is little more than kerosene. Isopropanol also removes many
lubricants as well.
>>
>> I have been using AeroShell 33 on the appropriate locations in SP-600 and
R-390 receivers as well. It doesn't take much and certainly reduces
friction and wear while it "stays put." I haven't seen the migration that
silicone based lubricants exhibit. It is synthetic Lithium grease and so
far hasn't damaged any non metallic items I have tested. By military
specification it doesn't smell "rancid" like many common lubricants do.
>>
>> Aircraft Spruce sells AeroShell 33 in rational quantities (tube for
grease gun). I bought a can of solvent from NAPA (big can). I spoke with a
chemist with the company who formulates the solvent for NAPA. He finally
admitted that is essentially Stoddard Solvent.
>>
>> Gary WA0SPM, member US Army MARS
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Oct 24, 2014, at 11:52 AM, "Peter Gottlieb" <hpnpilot at gmail.com>
wrote:
>>>
>>> Interesting, thank you.
>>>
>>> Peter
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 10/24/2014 1:49 PM, watkins-johnson at terryo.org wrote:
>>>> My two preferred lubricants for electronics are Mobil 1 for places
>>>> requiring a thin lubricant that doesn't squeeze out and Phil Woods
>>>> Waterproof Grease (designed for bicycles) for places requiring a
thicker
>>>> lubricant.
>>>>
>>>> I started using Mobil 1after a tip from the R-390 users group. In my
>>>> experience with multiple premium receivers it doesn't creep onto
>>>> surrounding surfaces. I would use this on a tuning shaft any day.
>>>>
>>>> I first used the Phil Woods Grease while rebuilding my second R-389 (I
was
>>>> young, strong, and foolish once), which has the most leaden manual
tuning
>>>> knob of any receiver I've ever owned. It didn't work miracles but the
>>>> tuning was much better than the first one I rebuilt.
>>>>
>>>> Once of the stranger lubricant tricks I ever picked up was from a
guitar
>>>> amp technician. If you have a noisy and irreplaceable potentiometer,
>>>> Lock-Ease graphite lock spray works great for filling in the noisy pits
on
>>>> a degrading pot. The trick is to use it sparingly and infrequently.
This
>>>> is a tip that can go bad in electronic circuits in a hurry, but
sometimes
>>>> it's the only option.
>>>>
>>>> Terry O'
>>>> http://watkins-Johnson.terryo.org
>>>> http://BlackRadios.terryo.org
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Hi Boris!
>>>>> I would caution against using silicone spray in electronics: When I
was
>>>>> in industry, it was explained to me that silicones can break down into
>>>>> lesser products, i.e. Silicon Dioxide (SiO2), or sand! It might be
>>>>> permissible to use it on a shaft, but I would rather use something
like
>>>>> Kroil, or another penetrating oil to get a stuck part moving, then
>>>>> gradually work more light oil into it to flush out rust, and
afterwards
>>>>> use a drop or two of heavy synthetic oil. Just my two cents worth...
>>>>> 73, Tom Herman, PhD., CETma. N1BEC/7
>>>>>
>>>>>> From: ua3mcj at mail.ru
>>>>>> To: cfuller1 at gmail.com
>>>>>> Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 08:39:21 +0400
>>>>>> CC: Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Premium-Rx] Collins HF-2050
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hello Chris,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> At first find location of bearing in main tuning shaft, spray it with
>>>>>> Silicone Spray, rotate knob back and forth some few minutes it became
>>>>>> ease to move after that.
>>>>>> Then add few drops of synthetic oil ( oil must NOT became dry with
the
>>>>>> time).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Make some inspection, probably few more bearings there, if so do the
>>>>>> same with them.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Also check for rust in the shafts sleeves there, if yes, use rust
>>>>>> remover.
>>>>>> Remove dust, dirt with pressed air if compressor available. Remove
all
>>>>>> old, dryed grease if used in and replace with fresh one...Then enjoy
>>>>>> with smooth tuning knob rotation...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> B.R.
>>>>>> Boris
>>>>>> UA3MCJ
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>>>>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>>>>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>>>>>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>>>>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>>>>>> Help Contact eMail: paul at 8zo.com
>>>>>> Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
>>>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>>>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>>>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>>>>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>>>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>>>>> Help Contact eMail: paul at 8zo.com
>>>>> Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
>>>>
>>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>>>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>>>> Help Contact eMail: paul at 8zo.com
>>>> Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
>>>
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>>> Help Contact eMail: paul at 8zo.com
>>> Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Premium-Rx mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
>> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
>> Help Contact eMail: paul at 8zo.com
>> Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Premium-Rx mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/premium-rx
> Help Page: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Premium-Rx at mailman.qth.net
> Help Contact eMail: paul at 8zo.com
> Home Page: http://www.premium-rx.org/
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