[OKDXA] HB0

[AC5UP]

Kim Elmore wrote:
> Well, the K9AY loops do seem to help.
Do me a small favor... I'm considering a variant of the K9AY idea as an 
all-band wire biased toward the AM broadcast band. Same concept, except 
I'm thinking one loop with a spreader arm near the top to increase the 
enclosed area. Visualize a 30' mast with a 10' horizontal PVC pipe 
clamped about 5' from the top. Bottom end has a pair of 10' horizontal 
PVC pipes on either side of the mast. Terminating resistor, ground rod 
and 9:1 balun as normal. It's still a triangle, but now it's a fat 
triangle. Could be better, could make no difference...

Anyway, during the mid day when there's no hint of skywave tune around 
and let me know how you copy WBAP on 820 kHz and KRLD on 1080 kHz (both 
Dallas). Then slide over to 1070 and listen for KFDI in Wichita, KS. I 
have a hunch you'll hear a weak but usable signal from all three. For me 
WBAP is a tad stronger than KRLD and I'm curious if you find the 
opposite to be true since your loop is biased more toward 160 Meters 
than the resonant loops I've worked with. Just for grins, see if you 
have any daytime reception of KWON in Bartlesville on 1400 kHz or 
(mission impossible) KMOX on 1120 in St. Louis.

At night try KDKA in Pittsburgh on 1020 kHz. That's my bellwether 
station as (I think) it's the only true clear channel left in the US. 
Generally comes in best an hour or so after sunset, and if you can score 
KPHT on 1210 kHz (Philadelphia) you're doing extremely well. Might also 
try for KSL on 1160 kHz in Salt Lake City and... If you're really 
lucky... KNX in LA on 1070. SLC is tough copy for me thanks to the Tower 
Of Power on 1170 and I've heard KNX only a handful of times over the years.

Used to do a fair amount of BCB DX'ing but since it all became corporate 
radio the motivation isn't what it used to be.........

- TNX

Note To 'FU: -= REAL HAMS =- have no problem soldering PL-259's 'cuz 
they picked up an 80 watt soldering iron at Lowe's (or a stained glass 
shop) and know how to use it. Let's just say I can smoke 'em into 
submission faster than some folks can Ribbit with a big iron pre-heated 
for five minutes or better. The trick is to lightly tin the center 
conductor and braid, solder the center pin first, let it cool, and be 
sure to pull the iron as soon as the solder starts to flow into the side 
holes. There's enough residual heat to finish the job and anything over 
10 seconds or so with the iron on the connector body will melt the 
dielectric.

The other trick is to have plenty of spare PL-259's and anything less 
than textbook perfect for the connector(s) at the top of the tower gets 
re-done. In other words, do your best work on the connectors that are 
the most work to replace... Otherwise, you will.