[Mobile-Portable] 500 Watt Mobil Amp
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[email protected]
Sat, 26 Jul 2003 22:08:47 EDT
To run a 500 watt amp in your vehicle you might consider the following:
The extra batt should be in a "marine case' to prevent acid from damaging
your vehicle interior. I would also suggest a "sealed batt so that you never
have to add water and of course, you will have fewer potential leaks of acid
since it is sealed. A "GEL" cell, like are use in electric wheel chairs are
great, they will not contaminate your vehicle interior, but cost more. The cable
from the batteries should be connected with a solenoid that only provides 12 V
to the amplifier only when the auto engine is running. The original auto batt
and the additional batt should be connected in parallel with cables
consisting of #4 or larger wire depending on distance apart. There is a benefit to
install one of the batts very close to your amp, if you can, if not use a very
large cable to your amp from the batts. Car audio stores have very nice large
conductor cables as do welding supply houses. Both types are quite flexible
and easy to run in your vehicle.
Isolators are a diode network that has a 0.7 to 1.4 V volt drop and on a 12
volt system, that is a high percentage voltage drop and I would not recommend
their use.
Make sure that the amp is mounted in the passenger cabin so it does not
become too hot. If the amp does not have a fan for cooling, install a 12v fan that
blows over the heat sink. You could run the fan only when the amp is on, or
use a thermostat and have the fan remain on when the heat sink is above a
certain temperature. Your 500 W linear amp is about 50% efficient, so you will
need about 1000 watts of energy. Power = EI , so 1000 / 12 =83 amps plus your
xcvr draw of about 20 amps and normal vehicle current demands. Make sure that
your alternator is capable of the current that you expect to draw or it will
blow out. Many recent vintage autos have alternators that are capable of 100
to 130 amps, which will be O.K. Older cars which were not so power hungry may
only have a 40 or 60 amp alternator. Ask your auto dealer, they usually have a
chart that list the alternator capacity for each model and year. Some auto
electric rebuilding shop sell rebuilt alternators that are of a higher amperage
than your standard factory supplied unit and are affordable. There is also
an after market "dual alternator" kit that some car audio stores sell where you
can have 260 + amps capacity that you could run with two batts, if you need a
full legal limit RF amp.
I currently run a 1000 W output amp with two batts and a single 160 amp
alternator. My 1500 watt solid state output amp is under construction, and I will
need to install "dual alternators" to avoid killing my present alternator. My
antenna is a home brew "bug catcher."
Other news: The auto industry has announced that they will soon switch from a
12 volt battery to a 36 volt battery with a 42 volt charging system. Low
impedance matching problems of future RF power transistors in linear amplifiers
will be almost eliminated and power cables will shrink in size. Hurray!
73,
Terry, K7FE
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