[Milsurplus] Duracell Coppertop battries
KD7JYK DM09
kd7jyk at earthlink.net
Sat Jan 7 13:43:42 EST 2023
> Don’t know if anyone else is having a problem with these, but put a set
> of new ones in my Simpson 260 last summer and just found that they have
> leaked. Will have to replace the contacts as they are fairly well
> eaten. Had a problem with them years ago and stopped using them.
We have plenty here. Default mode? NEVER trust them. We've had them
leak, split, detonate like a 12-gauge cartridge (9V, blew hot crap all
over the shop, too), boil, sputter, even slowly burn down their length
like a fuse.
Short term, not left in anything, OK, but still don't trust them beyond
a quick test, or maybe a few months, to a year at most, with a light
load like a clock, or CO detector. I still check them fairly often.
I switched to Energizer Lithium a few years back. Left in equipment,
heat, cold, not a problem yet, and no leaks. They do die somewhat fast,
when they are ready, not really tapering off, and hard to tell when, as
it appears to be based on load.
I knew a battery fellow in town about 20 years ago, an Engineer from one
of the big aerospace companies, Northrop, or some-such. He said
"Duracell is by far the worst, the only thing they have going for them
is marketing, and quantity sold", and something along the lines of
"NEVER USE THEM WHERE IT MATTERS!!!", he was very insistent on this.
So, cameras, sensors in the field, strictly lithium, and slowly
switching to those as I run out of Duracells.
I've had good luck with Energizer Lithium so far. They can be pricey,
but I feel the safety is worth it. An 8-pack in one store may be ~$15
(Kroger), and ~$26 in another (Lowe's)! Same batteries, so I buy by
price, and date, which is stamped into the side. I don't want to risk a
$150 camera with no replacement, for a buck or three worth of battery
cost difference.
Kurt
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