[Milsurplus] GRC-9 Maglite in situ

[Richard]

I had a similar experience with my Kenwood R2000 receiver.  The S-Meter 
light failed, found an incandescent replacement, but it was rather dim.  
Next was a green LED which was gorgeous, but didn't illuminate the red 
parts because of no red in the spectrum.  Next was a white LED which 
worked fine, but was very cold, like looking in an ice cave.  Last was a 
warm-white LED, which is very satisfactory.  I like the flat top LED's 
because I think they couple better to the plastic.  Had to buy 100, 
which was OK at 7 cents each.

Richard, AA1P

On 11/16/19 2:25 AM, Hubert Miller wrote:
>
> Installing the Maglite adapter is done with needle nose, gripping the 
> rim of the lamp base. It is actually quite easy to install and easier 
> to remove than the original bayonet base
>
> bulb, as you don't have to manipulate your fingers into the crowded 
> workspace.
>
> Now:
>
> 1- the Maglite bulb has a "warmer" glow than the LED, which is 
> "whiter" light.
>
> 2- the Maglite takes substantial current. If you use flashlight 
> batteries to light the filament, you're getting up into 1 amp 
> territory. 450 mA rec + 250 mA light.
>
>     I prefer a dial light that is on all time receiver is on.
>
> 3 -no, I didn't try this out at all in real life receive conditions.
>
> 4-  Any incandescent bulb has lower life hours than an LED.
>
> 5- After my last experiment, I am sold on the B+ LED. It gives 
> sufficient illumination with practically no power consumption. Hard to 
> beat that !
>
> 6- Contrary to my previous thinking, I am not totally convinced that a 
> voltage booster would create RFI into the receiver. This has still to 
> be tested. But the voltage booster did not
>
> bother at all an AM radio when placed near the antenna. This would 
> have to be placed in the space where the audio bias battery plugged 
> in, which limits solutions to the bias
>
> battery problem. I am thinking about how to deal with that.
>
> Now to look for some white LEDs to buy.
>
> -Hue
>
>
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