[Johnson] Viking Ranger VFO Problems/Access

[hamfish at comcast.net]

Bill,

Google Chernobyl Resistor!

Regards,
Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net <johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net> On
Behalf Of Bill Stewart
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2019 7:13 AM
To: Johnson <Johnson at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [Johnson] Viking Ranger VFO Problems/Access

GM All,
My Ranger (manual dated 1954) VFO started drifting with key down no matter
how long the warm-up is, so I took the top off the VFO compartment and found
the OB2 to have a large white, internal, spot at the top of the tube. Also
the area around the hole, in the phenolic board, where the tube goes thru,
is charred and cracked. 
Obviously a lot of heat was there for a while. Also in a short check, with
the power on, a lot of flashing inside the OB2 and it gets very hot. I
suspect that R3 has changed value drastically. I was able to remove the side
plate on the VFO and can see that R3 is cracked. Now the main question is
does the front panel have to come off to get the VFO box off (I'm suspecting
it does) . All the bottom nuts are off and only the shaft is keeping the box
from coming off. I have taken the VFO dial off and am down to a large nut.
Just wanna make sure before I get into what looks like a real P-I-B job. 

A bit more to the story. This Ranger has the keyer mod and the xmtr was a
kit. The wiring technique is not all that good. The xmtr worked good for a
while after I got it. But the keyer began to need adjustment. I could not
get the adjustment needed and looking at the keyer wiring, decided to rewire
it. The keyer worked. The drifting started after the keyer rewiring. Maybe
coincidence or did I foul up something?? 

If I ever get the VFO box off, I will cut a slot in it's front so it will
slide off over the VFO shaft. Don't recall having this issue when I went
into the Navigator VFO. 

Tnx for any tips, suggestions, etc. 
73 de Bill K4JYS
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