[Johnson] VFO issue resolved

[Glen Zook via Johnson]

You definitely want a fuse in the circuit!
When I don't want to drill a hole, I use this type of fuse holder:
Chassis-Type 4-Position Fuse Block : Fuse Blocks | RadioShack.com

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Chassis-Type Fuse Holder (2-Pack) : Fuse Holders | RadioShack.com

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| Chassis-Type Fuse Holder (2-Pack) : Fuse Holders...Get the Chassis-Type Fuse Holder (2-Pack) at RadioShack.com and see our entire selection of Fuse Holders from RadioShack. These chassi... |
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  They are also available from places other than Radio Shack.  These "break off" and can be used as a single fuse.  Also, they have single holders available.  Either use a machine screw that already goes through the chassis or else use a piece of double backed foam to hold the this to the chassis.
The black wire, from the 3-wire cord, goes first to the fuse holder and then to the off/on switch.  The white wire goes to the "other" side of the power transformer(s), and the green wire is connected directly to the chassis. Glen, K9STH

Website: http://k9sth.net
      From: Robert Sauvan <rsauvan at beyondbb.com>
 To: johnson at mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 7:29 PM
 Subject: [Johnson] VFO issue resolved
   
OK,
First of all,
Thank you Ashley, W7DUZ, for the detailed explanation of disassembling 
of the VFO. I may need it sooner or later for sure. I think I have 
dodged a huge bullet here.
After sending out my request for help I just decided to jump in and dink 
around with this thing a bit. I was looking under the chassis a bit more 
and noticed a couple of holes had been drilled right at the area of the 
where I believed the coupling was. Sure enough, I could shine a 
flashlight in there and barely see a couple of very small bolts holding 
the coupling together. One of the heads of the bolts was hitting 
something on the chassis but I cant really tell what it is. It seemed 
that if I were to be able to loosen something so the shaft could be 
pulled forward to the outside of the radio just a very small amount, the 
bolt head would clear. Decided to loosen the big brass nuts and by golly 
I was able to adjust the coupler bolt away from what it was hitting and 
it gave it plenty of room to clear. Problem solved and what a relief!!

My only issue now is the power cord. This is all I have left to do 
before I power this thing up and find out if I have a working radio or 
not. You know how it is, you just never know. John, W6ZKH had suggested 
putting the fuse holder in the extra SSB coax area because his was 
missing. Mine has the chassis mount connector so I dont want to remove 
that since it is there. Not too many places to mount a fuse holder. Does 
everyone suggest I have a fuse in the "hot" side of the new 3 wire power 
cord? Or can I just get away with no fuse and just put on a 3 wire cord. 
I want to do it right so if I have to drill a hole I guess I will do 
that. Let me know what you think.

Rodger, WQ9E, I will take copies of your issue notes for sure when you 
get time. Much appreciated. I have been wanting a Valiant again for a 
long time because it was the first transmitter I had as a Novice back in 
1969. Im excited to get this thing looking new again and back on the 
air. The previous owner did a nice job recapping. Very professional job. 
Only wished the front panel was a bit better. But, I can paint, 
silkscreen and make it new again as soon as I find out it works as it 
should.