[Johnson] VFO issue resolved

Chris Farley via Johnson johnson at mailman.qth.net
Sat May 23 00:40:59 EDT 2015 

Forgot one minor detail about the El-Menco plug with a paint mark and higher amperage fuse on the neutral side-  Be sure to orient it correctly, with the painted/marked side always being plugged into the hot (smaller slot) side of the AC receptacle!  

Regards, 
Chris kc9ieq

      From: Chris Farley via Johnson <johnson at mailman.qth.net>
 To: "johnson at mailman.qth.net" <johnson at mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 11:23 PM
 Subject: Re: [Johnson] VFO issue resolved
   
Yes, you definitely need to fuse the beast, somehow or another.  

The most common way would be to install a fuse block underneath the chassis someplace.  This is all and well, until the fuse blows.  Granted a properly sized fuse blowing would likely be indication of a fault that the unit would need taken apart to address anyway, it would be a PITA for nuisance fuse tripping.  The idea about using that hole for the ssb exciter input is interesting, and would be very easily reversible.  That might be a keeper, if you don't ever plan to use the Valiant with the/a SSB adapter.  

The Easiest "non hacky" way, would be to use the original El-Menco fused plug, and obviously bonding the chassis to ground.  With this, there is the issue of a neutral side fuse tripping and potentially electrocuting the unknowing operator upon touching the cabinet if the ground connection has been lost, or is missing.  The "fix" for this, is two different sized fuses, and a paint marker.  Pick a side of the El-Menco plug, and mark it with a dab or line of paint.  This now identifies that side of the plug as "hot".  Install the proper fuse in this side.  On the other side, install a fuse that is substantially larger, ideally a slow-blow, to boot.  *Index the marked side of the plug to the HOT side (smaller slot) of your AC receptacle.  Upon equipment failure and subsequently a blown fuse, the hot side should trip before the neutral with this arrangement.  That is unless the failure is huge enough that both fuses blow simultaneously.  

Option three, would be to get yourself a grounded, fused AC power plug.  Such an animal DOES exist, Hubbell HBL5299.  They aren't cheap at all, but slicker than pig snot on a fence post.  A Google search will yield you an image and sources.  

As for the VFO coupler-  Glad you were able to get it straightened out, they can be a real bear.  It doesn't sound like you need one, but I made up some kits for those couplers consisting of an F4 fiberglass wafer milled to the exact size, and the needed hardware.  Pics may be seen at the following link, I offer list members a 10% discount:
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/231570910140

Regards, 
Chris kc9ieq

 
    From: Robert Sauvan <rsauvan at beyondbb.com>
 To: johnson at mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 8:54 PM
 Subject: Re: [Johnson] VFO issue resolved
  
Thats why I asked. Not sure if I really needed to or not, but, obvious 
from suggestions, definitely should be done. Just dont want to have 
anything cobbled, so looking for suggestions as to what to do to make a 
clean modification. Not interested in being labeled a "hack".

Thanks-Bob-W0YBS



On 5/22/2015 7:23 PM, manualman at juno.com wrote:
> Why would you run any roughly 60 year old rig without an AC line fuse?
> You need to protect the HV transformer. The LV transformer circuitry also
> has its oqwn fuse. Actually for a Valiant, you should have handy a box of
> fuses.
>
> Pete, wa2cwa
>
> On Fri, 22 May 2015 18:29:56 -0600 Robert Sauvan <rsauvan at beyondbb.com>
> writes:
>> OK,
>> First of all,
>> Thank you Ashley, W7DUZ, for the detailed explanation of
>> disassembling
>> of the VFO. I may need it sooner or later for sure. I think I have
>> dodged a huge bullet here.
>> After sending out my request for help I just decided to jump in and
>> dink
>> around with this thing a bit. I was looking under the chassis a bit
>> more
>> and noticed a couple of holes had been drilled right at the area of
>> the
>> where I believed the coupling was. Sure enough, I could shine a
>> flashlight in there and barely see a couple of very small bolts
>> holding
>> the coupling together. One of the heads of the bolts was hitting
>> something on the chassis but I cant really tell what it is. It
>> seemed
>> that if I were to be able to loosen something so the shaft could be
>>
>> pulled forward to the outside of the radio just a very small amount,
>> the
>> bolt head would clear. Decided to loosen the big brass nuts and by
>> golly
>> I was able to adjust the coupler bolt away from what it was hitting
>> and
>> it gave it plenty of room to clear. Problem solved and what a
>> relief!!
>>
>> My only issue now is the power cord. This is all I have left to do
>> before I power this thing up and find out if I have a working radio
>> or
>> not. You know how it is, you just never know. John, W6ZKH had
>> suggested
>> putting the fuse holder in the extra SSB coax area because his was
>> missing. Mine has the chassis mount connector so I dont want to
>> remove
>> that since it is there. Not too many places to mount a fuse holder.
>> Does
>> everyone suggest I have a fuse in the "hot" side of the new 3 wire
>> power
>> cord? Or can I just get away with no fuse and just put on a 3 wire
>> cord.
>> I want to do it right so if I have to drill a hole I guess I will do
>>
>> that. Let me know what you think.
>>
>> Rodger, WQ9E, I will take copies of your issue notes for sure when
>> you
>> get time. Much appreciated. I have been wanting a Valiant again for
>> a
>> long time because it was the first transmitter I had as a Novice
>> back in
>> 1969. Im excited to get this thing looking new again and back on the
>>
>> air. The previous owner did a nice job recapping. Very professional
>> job.
>> Only wished the front panel was a bit better. But, I can paint,
>> silkscreen and make it new again as soon as I find out it works as
>> it
>> should.
>>
>> Thanks-Bob-W0YBS
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