[Johnson] T/R relay

Thu Jul 11 16:43:35 EDT 2013

I care more about getting rid of the selenium than anything else. It DOES
take a minor load off the transformer's net power load when you replace a
tube rectifier with silicon, hard switching notwithstanding.  

The DXE price includes the other hardware. I just happened to pick on them
because I knew what their Amphenol SO-239 connectors' insulation was. Mouser
DOES list it as well, and represents a better deal for sure-if you have your
own screws, etc.

I do not expect T/R Switches to really improve receiver specs-I just don't
want them to hurt them. It's the nearly foolproof T/R switching that make me
a fan.

Ed Tanton

website: http://www.n4xy.com 

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-----Original Message-----
From: Carl [mailto:km1h at jeremy.mv.com] 
Sent: 11 July, 2013 2:38 PM
To: n4xy at comcast.net
Cc: johnson at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Johnson] T/R relay

The only 'normal' reason for desensing with an electronic T/R Switch would
be operation on a band the TX is not tuned to. If that isn't what you're
doing, I would make certain your Fast/Slow AGC setting on the receiver isn't
the cause, then I would swap the 6BL7. After that, you start getting into
some component problem within the 250-39. One thing you can do about the
heat: paint the cabinet black. Most of whatever that finish is on my 250-39s
is crummy, one way or another (usually the front panel on mine.) So painting
the cabinet isn't going to hurt the value. This provides a nice opportunity
to 1st drill out the rivets and swap the connectors. If you care about
matching such things, DX-Engineering sells the Amphenol SO-239s with that
glass-reinforced PBT insulation material (as opposed to 'modern' TFE.) See:
http://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-83-1r-kit

** More of the usual overpricing from DXE, I make it a point to buy nothing
from them.
That connector is $3.28 at Mouser who has no minimum, and low shipping when
USPS First Class is requested.

About replacing the rectifier in any boatanchor: you can do it, but the B+
is going to go way up, so you need to make some measurements 1st. Measure
the HV, then the current. Replace whatever rectifier, then again measure the
B+. That will give you a value for an appropriate dropping resistor-both
ohms and power. Add the resistor, measure until you have the resistor value
right, and you are back to operation with the original voltage level.

** And at no heat savings other than the tube filament and at the same time
the transformer is running harder due to the hard switching of the SS.
You wind up with a net gain of zero in most of those swaps.

Obviously, this is much more reasonable when there isn't a lot of current,
and when that current is steady-such as in a T/R Switch.

Other points about T/R Switches:
1) Fusing. I always add a subminiature 250VAC-rated TO-5
transistor-sized fuse (typically a 1 or 2A SB) internally. Fuses are
primarily disaster prevention devices, and for something like a T/R Switch 1
or 2A SB is fine. The EFJ 250-39 uses the EFJ fused-plug with a 2-wire cord.
By adding a small internal fuse, you can use a 3-wire cord which I am much
more comfortable with, and without violating my Rule 1-for-Boatanchors: I
don't make no new holes.
2) Rectifiers. I (pardon the heresy here on EFJ) really like the
broadband B&W 380B and the B&W 381-which adds bandswitching, and hence some
selectivity. The latter T/R SW is somewhat hard to find.

** I use a pair of Johnsons and a pair of B&W 381-C's, the B&W has a better 
SNR on 10 and 15M but only with a fairly noisy radio to start with. None of 
the T/R switches will help already hot performers and just raise the noise 
plus signal.

The B&Ws use a
selenium rectifier and a 2 wire cord with no fusing (there MAY be an
internal fusible link (one individual wire from the stranded 2 wire cord
wire.) Replacing any selenium rectifier is always a good idea since the
fumes from a burned-out selenium rectifier are a definitely poisonous gas.

** First Ive ever heard the selenium fumes are toxic or a poisonous gas. 
They will certainly clear a room/house with the stink but AFIK they havent 
killed anyone and millions were used in consumer electronics (-; including 
Johnsons.

From: "Barry L. Ornitz" <ornitz at dpnet.net>
Subject: Re: Selenium Rectifier
Date: 02 Dec 1998
Keywords: selenium, rectifier, toxicity, safety
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono
Selenium dioxide is the major compound produced when a selenium
rectifier is overheated.  It can cause severe burns to the mucous
membranes and severe respiratory tract, skin, and eye irritation.  It
is also a dermal sensitizer in that it can promote allergic reactions.
Fortunately it is not consider a carcinogen.  Another fortunate thing
is the BAD smell.  When I say BAD, I mean really, really, _really_
_BAD_.  Our odor threshold for selenium dioxide is 0.0002 mg/m3.

The allowed exposure for selenium and it compounds (expressed as
selenium) is:
   0.2 mg/m3 OSHA TWA
   0.2 mg/m3 ACGIH TWA
   0.2 mg/m3 NIOSH recommended 10 hour TWA
   0.1  mg/m3 DFG MAK TWA (total dust);
   1 mg/m3 DFG MAK 30 minute peak, average value, once per shift

Note that the odor threshold is far below these.

Carl
KM1H

Same measurement techniques.

I have some of these same comments on my website which REALLY needs
attention now that I have retired:

http://www.n4xy.com/accessories-2.html

Ed Tanton  N4XY  n4xy at comcast.net
189 Pioneer Trail
Marietta, GA  30068-3466
U.S.A.

EFJ Reflector Manager

website: http://www.n4xy.com

Member: ARRL(LM)  AMSAT(LM)
QCWA(LM) SEDXC NCDXF INDEXA(LM)
OKQRP Elecraft K2 Beta Tester

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-----Original Message-----
From: johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Charles Ring

I have used the 250-39 Johnson T/R switch since 1967. I've had 3 of them and
the power transformer on two of those have failed. Since returning to the
air a year ago I've been using one with my Globe King 500A and Drake R-4C.
It works, but unlike long ago, I can't get full QSK. The receiver is being
badly desensed. I don't remember if it did better then with the R-4C or if
that was only with the 2-C and the R-4B, both of which are waiting for
repairs. I am interested in changing to either a fast relay or a PIN diode
switch. I seldom do faster than 25WPM.

73 de W3NU

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