[Johnson] [Boatanchors] Johnson Ranger VFO Access Question

[Carl]

Be careful when working with verniers Scott. Many work by using the friction 
of the grease to provide sufficient torque. Flushing that out and going to a 
synthetic may limit its performance; ask me how I know...but it wasnt in a 
Johnson!

Ive had better results with a 6AH6 VFO tube in most all 6AU6 VFO's of all 
brands. Depending upon the circuit the plate and screens use zeners of lower 
voltages that still allows a surplus of drive on 10M. The result is less 
drift and chirp.

Carl
KM1H



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Whitebear1122" <whitebear1122 at comcast.net>
To: "boatanchors" <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>; <johnson at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Johnson] [Boatanchors] Johnson Ranger VFO Access Question


> My thanks to all the folks who emailed instructions and advice on this 
> topic.  I wasn't expecting much feedback and I am overwhelmed with the 
> amount of advice I received!   I'm printing it all out and keeping in the 
> Johnson folder for future adventures into the Ranger and Navigator.  My 
> Navigator VFO is electrically unstable so I'll need to get in there next.
>
> This morning I successfully pulled the front panel off without any 
> difficulty.  The secret is exactly what you guys mentioned, keeping any 
> force OFF of the fragile shaft coupling during removal.  I took some 
> photos that I will share with the group so folks can see what that 
> coupling looks like.  THis is my first foray into the guts of the VFO 
> beyond simply opening the side panel and replacing the 18K.
>
> I removed the vfo vernier and it has a 'knobby' feel, not smooth at all, 
> feeling like it has indents.  I have it soaking in a baggie full of PG 
> Blaster right now but I found out from Rodger WQ9E that the vernier comes 
> apart so I'll separate it and clean the pieces and parts, lube it up with 
> synthetic lube, then reassemble.
>
> I also cleaned the VFO variable capacitor wipers and will clean the rotary 
> switch contacts for the multiplier switch.
>
> I removed the VFO shield as well.
> Yes I plan to recap all the electrolytics and paper capacitors since I'm 
> in there and they are all easily accessible.  That 10 uf 700 volt 
> electrolytic will be a slight pain due to the high voltage rating that is 
> not available.  I see that KE9PQ sells a Ranger recap kit that includes a 
> 700v capacitor "tube".  I'm not sure I'll go that route or just buy the 
> caps separately.   I assume the HV tube simply contains two 20 uf 350 or 
> 400 volt caps in series, two equalizing resistors (maybe), then sealed in 
> the tube with wires coming out.   I think I can do that myself with two 
> separate caps and resistors, then slide it in a piece of shrink tubing for 
> electrical isolation and mechanical stability, and shrink it down.
>
> I am certainly going to replace the 18K OA2 current limit resistor.  Mine 
> measures 22K at the moment, and one of the color bands literally fell off 
> when I touched it.  :)    I had one of those go bad on my Valiant back in 
> 1995 or 1996, where it literally burned up and cracked, taking out the 
> 6AU6 and OA2 in the carnage.
>
> With the front panel off, I guess I'll be able to really clean it without 
> goobering up the controls and shafts. hi hi
>
> I've tried to take pictures during the disassembly.  I have most of the 
> nuts and bolts in baggies marked with their origin.
>
> I don't have any plans to hot rod the Ranger.  Ranger audio sounds fine in 
> general for my use.  I used to run other Ranger 1's and II's with my Desk 
> KW and got great audio reports.  I'm also leaving the tube rectifiers in 
> as I don't have any issue with them.
>
> I appreciate the your advice and help as I take on this adventure.
>
> 73, Scott WA9WFA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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