[Johnson] REBUILDING JOHNSON & other gear

[Jim Brannigan]

I also agree with Dee.
It is much easier to "shot-gun" the parts when the radio is in pieces then 
it is to trouble shoot in tight spaces.
However (see my post on my Ranger), yesterdays new part is today's old part.
Don't overlook the obvious....

Jim


>I have to agree with Dee, here. It took me a few hours
> to track down a problem on a Valiant II. What had
> happened was I was having absolutely NO power out. The
> unit was described to me as having 100 watts out by
> the now deceased "Uncle Dave Kamlin" of California.
> This happened to me over a decade ago. Quite in fact,
> the rig never worked and I found out why: a disc
> ceramic capacitor on the screen of the 6AQ5 tube
> controlling the 6146's failed. After replacing the
> unit, viola', it worked! I would heartily suggest
> removing those old disc caps. Seems like bad caps
> aren't limited to the "black beauties, brown busters,
> or any other thing like that. Cal.
> --- "Dee C. Almquist" <w4pnt at highspeedlink.net> wrote:
>
>> Dear AM'rs
>> I rarely make suggestions but.... ANYONE overhauling
>> BA's should keep in mind, these rigs are many years
>> old. And even though the capacitors look ok is being
>> mislead & lots of frustration. My shop policy is
>> (especially Johnson) CHANGE OUT ALL CERAMIC BYPASS
>> CAPS & check every resistor for value. This shotgun
>> method has saved me time & added to customer
>> satisfaction on every Ranger & Valiant (same w/
>> other gear) that I restore. It pains me to read of a
>> fellow Anchorite ready to dump his set due to
>> repeated failure because of assuming "the rest" of
>> one time quality parts are ok, then comes another
>> failure, etc. There is nothing better to do in
>> restoration but to assume NO cap or resistor is good
>> after all the yrs since it was new. Its time
>> consuming but worth the effort.... & un-needed
>> frustration.
>>
>> Warm 73 to all
>> Dee