[Johnson] REBUILDING JOHNSON & other gear

[C E]

I have to agree with Dee, here. It took me a few hours
to track down a problem on a Valiant II. What had
happened was I was having absolutely NO power out. The
unit was described to me as having 100 watts out by
the now deceased "Uncle Dave Kamlin" of California.
This happened to me over a decade ago. Quite in fact,
the rig never worked and I found out why: a disc
ceramic capacitor on the screen of the 6AQ5 tube
controlling the 6146's failed. After replacing the
unit, viola', it worked! I would heartily suggest
removing those old disc caps. Seems like bad caps
aren't limited to the "black beauties, brown busters,
or any other thing like that. Cal.
--- "Dee C. Almquist" <w4pnt at highspeedlink.net> wrote:

> Dear AM'rs
> I rarely make suggestions but.... ANYONE overhauling
> BA's should keep in mind, these rigs are many years
> old. And even though the capacitors look ok is being
> mislead & lots of frustration. My shop policy is
> (especially Johnson) CHANGE OUT ALL CERAMIC BYPASS
> CAPS & check every resistor for value. This shotgun
> method has saved me time & added to customer
> satisfaction on every Ranger & Valiant (same w/
> other gear) that I restore. It pains me to read of a
> fellow Anchorite ready to dump his set due to
> repeated failure because of assuming "the rest" of
> one time quality parts are ok, then comes another
> failure, etc. There is nothing better to do in
> restoration but to assume NO cap or resistor is good
> after all the yrs since it was new. Its time
> consuming but worth the effort.... & un-needed
> frustration. 
> 
> Warm 73 to all
> Dee
> Johnson mailing list
> Home:
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> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.html
> Post: mailto:Johnson at mailman.qth.net
> 


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