[JMS] info please <<Modulator Meter>>
Don Buska
D.Buska at Advantest.com
Thu Aug 11 15:34:01 EDT 2005
Ronnie, Gratis on the meter. I'll work at making the exchange this weekend and have it off to you next week.
Good luck,
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: james_millen_society-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:james_millen_society-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of ronnie.hull
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2005 1:56 PM
To: The James Millen Society Members Email Reflector
Subject: RE: [JMS] info please <<Modulator Meter>>
Don thanks for all that good info!
yes I want your old meter, tell me what you want for it with shipping and I'll get it headed your way.
thanks
R
---------- Original Message -----------
From: "Don Buska" <D.Buska at Advantest.com>
To: "The James Millen Society Members Email Reflector"
<james_millen_society at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 10:39:45 -0700
Subject: RE: [JMS] info please <<Modulator Meter>>
> Don't recall making a template. Basically measure, sketch it on
> paper, measure again, make corrections to paper, cut, drill. The
> basic basement workshop type of thing, hi.
>
> I do recall on mine:
>
> 1. Needed to make a brass cover for the modulator chassis. This
> cover is actually the piece that wraps around the chassis as received
> from JME. It is a four sided box. Again, I don't think I made a
> template but simply marked it directly onto a piece of brass sheet
> material I had. I marked the bend lines and then cut it out on my
> band saw. Took that over to a local HVAC place and they bent it into
> the box for me.
>
> 2. Measured where the holes should go for the differing controls and
> jacks on the modulator chassis. Also the holes for the tabs on the
> modulator chassis that hold the two piece together. Marked the brass
> cover for all holes. Again measured everything again!
> Drilled out all. The meter is smack tab in the middle of the chassis
> so it's a no brainer (Big Hole Saw).
>
> 3. Screwed it together to confirm it mated well and that the controls
> and jacks lined up. Then disassembled them and spray painted the new
> brass cover piece to match the modulator chassis.
>
> 4. The chassis cover we just made can now be used as the drill
> pattern for the front panel. The front panel rack is marked and
> drilled to center the chassis assembly behind it. To hold the chassis
> cover just made to the rack front I drilled four small (I forget
> either #4 or #6 screws) holes through the rack front and chassis. I
> used counter sunk screws (I think now that I used #4 screws as #6's
> wouldn't work for the thickness of the front rack panel - not enough
> thickness to counter sink properly). Now you won't have to go through
> all this if you don't mind having the screw heads visible on the
> finished product. However, since I didn't see these mounting screws
> on the original Millen front panel I opted to hide them.
>
> 5. After a mounting check of the front rack panel to the modulator
> unit and a verification that all holes align properly again
> disassemble it all.
>
> 6. Paint the rack front panel (front and back) with black wrinkle
> paint. Unless you already have the right size rack in black wrinkle.
>
> 7. Next I went to the local hobby/craft store and bought a couple
> pieces of thin aluminum sheet. To duplicate the Millen front metal
> label plates it is required to do it using two pieces. Cut the sheet
> to the same height as those on the Millen 90801 transmitter.
> Each sheet will only go to the middle of the rack front! On mine I
> didn't round the corners of the label plates like the other Millen
> products. I think I was having a hard time getting Corel Draw to make
> the corners look just like the Millen's and finally determined it
> looked best to just leave them square, i.e. I gave up! Once the two
> aluminum pieces are cut center them on the front panel so that the two
> pieces butt together nicely in the middle of the rack panel.
> Use tape to hold them down.
>
> 8. From the back side of the rack front scribe the holes through to
> the aluminum plates.
>
> 9. Remove the aluminum plates and drill out the hole. Be careful
> drilling these aluminum sheet. Being so thin you will need to start
> holes small and work up one drill size at a time. If you increase the
> drill size to fast it could easily bind when drilling and bend the
> sheet! The meter will be an interesting cut out. Since each aluminum
> plate will only have half the meter hole. I forget how I did it.
> Most likely I used the band saw to cut each roughly and then filed it
> out.
>
> 10. Prepare the clear transparent front sheets (I have bit map images
> of both halves of the front label plates I can send to you via email -
> just ask). I used a laser printer. They were actually reverse
> printed so the actual printout is on the side of the transparency that
> is in contact with the aluminum plate. The front panel then is glossy
> looking and the labeling won't scratch off.
>
> 11. Cut the transparencies down so that they are the same size as the
> aluminum sheets. You will also need to cut out all the holes.
> I used a spray on clear glue to hold them down to the aluminum sheets.
>
> *** A note here. I've also used clear sticker material to do the
> same thing. This stuff is available from office supply joints. The
> only problem using this stuff is the printout will need to be printed
> (not reversed) on the side of the sticker which will be away from the
> aluminum sheets. Thus it will be prone to scratches and will also be
> a dull black finish. Still it doesn't look all that bad. If you look
> at the big picture of my Millen rack setup in my station setup pdf
> file the LV power supply unit right below my modulator uses the clear
> sticker method. You can see that it is a dull flat black. I also
> sprayed an overcoat of clear protective lacquer - just make sure it
> doesn't contain acetone!
>
> 12. Now before the aluminum label sheets get applied to the front rack
> panel we must secure the chassis cover first. This is because I used
> the countersunk screws and lock washers nuts. Do a nice tight job
> securing the cover if you choose this method. Once the aluminum label
> plates are applied it will be a real pain later if the screws loosen
> up!
>
> 13. With the chassis cover secured to the rack panel the aluminum
> label plates can be applied to the rack panel front. I used the same
> clear spray on glue (got this from an Arts and Crap Store too) to
> attach the plates down. Make sure that all the holes line up between
> the chassis cover, rack and aluminum plates. This alignment is
> something you should be doing along the way after things get drilled.
>
> 14. If my memory is correct none of the front panel controls or
> connectors are actually secured to the front panel. They are all
> attached to the modulator chassis. The only things that will hold the
> chassis cover we constructed to the front panel will be those four
> hidden screws and the meter mounting screws. That's why I added the
> hidden screws. I was afraid the meter screws could break if they were
> all that held the modulator to the front panel!
>
> 15. The meter needs to slide in from the front panel. It is secured
> with the standard four nuts. Note the nuts actually will be inside
> the chassis cover. Notice the meter nearly covers the completed
> aluminum label plates seam!
>
> 16. With the modulator chassis is close proximity to the chassis
> cover, connect the meter leads in the modulator to the meter.
>
> 17. Slide the modulator chassis into the chassis cover and install
> all #6 mounting screws. The modulator chassis is already tapped for
> #6 screws. Thus our constructed chassis cover only has clearance holes.
>
> 18. Install the two knobs. Original Millen mandatory, hi hi.
> Don't use those early National look-alikes - James would roll over in
> his grave..... ** Side Note - Only a true Millen fan can tell the
> difference between the National and Millen bar knobs from the front
> side - yes they are very different - it will be on the next test....
>
> 19. Your done and ready to Modulate the World....... Ok you'll need
> to run some wires and power.
>
> The one nice thing about my modulator is that unlike all factory units
> I fixed a layout flaw in the front labeling. The clearance hole for
> the mic jack on all Millen made units, except the tall panel
> modulator, ended up bigger than the original art work for the front
> panels. Thus the word "MICROPHONE" is covered somewhat by the hole
> trim ring. I moved that label up a bit and my ring is part of the
> artwork and not an actual metal piece.
>
> Well, I didn't expect to do this much writing when I started the
> reply, but once I started I got carried away.
>
> Good luck Ronnie. Although this may not look original at close
> inspection it does pass as original to the casual observer.
>
> 73,
>
> Don N9OO
>
> P.S. Did you want my old meter?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: james_millen_society-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:james_millen_society-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
ronnie.hull
> Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2005 8:56 AM
> To: The James Millen Society Members Email Reflector
> Subject: RE: [JMS] info please <<Modulator Meter>>
>
> Don
> as usual thanks so much for your help. One more questions. When you
> put a front panel on your modulator, did you have a template for
> drilling holes and etc?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ronnie
>
> ---------- Original Message -----------
> From: "Don Buska" <D.Buska at Advantest.com>
> To: "The James Millen Society Members Email Reflector"
> <james_millen_society at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 09:03:28 -0700
> Subject: RE: [JMS] info please <<Modulator Meter>>
>
> > Hi Ronnie,
> >
> > I bought the one that Bob WØYVA had for sale on his website and
> > advertised here on the reflector. Same use on my end as I too had
> > one of the JME partial built 90831's. Maybe Ralph still has some
> > meters instock. If not when I replace mine I will have the current
> > non-Millen meter that I used. It looks very close to the original
> > and mine has a slightly higher (250mA vs 200mA) current range. You
> > can see the picture of mine in the pdf file in my Millen Station
> > Setup article on the JMS site. Click on the link to Bob's migration
> > site as the pdf file will download much faster! I would be happy to
> > give you the old meter to get you started. Plus, it will give me
> > the incentive to pull the modulator apart and change to the Millen meter.
> >
> > 73
> >
> > Don N9OO
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: james_millen_society-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> > [mailto:james_millen_society-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> ronnie.hull
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 8:59 AM
> > To: james_millen_society at mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: [JMS] info please
> >
> > Last year sometime I became the proud father of a Millen 40W
> > modulator for the 90800/01. I bought it from Millen brand spanking
> > new, with one hitch. It came with no meter or front panel.
> >
> > I think I remember reading somewhere that one of the list members
> > had bought one of these, and had built up the front panel and meter.
> > I need info on this. Would love to have mine ready to fly, if and
> > when I ever get a power su pply for it and the 90801 built up.
> >
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > Ronnie - W5SUM
> >
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