[HomeBrew] Re: RE: Homebrew Equiv. of Ameritron ALS-500M?

Jim Miller JimMiller at STL-OnLine.Net
Sat Oct 14 10:18:26 EDT 2006


It seems I do not understand what the real question is here.

The ALS500 is a 12 volt (13.8 or whatever) amp; it does not use 48 volts.
If you want a 50 volt version, you want a homebrew version of the ALS600,
not the ALS500.  Built one?  HUGE pain.  Just buy one used, get a guarantee,
great amp.

1. ALL cars used to run with external regulators.  Newer models have the
regulator integrated into the alternator BUT that is not the way it used to
be.  Just ask at the parts dealer, they should be able to tell you when they
switched.  I know all 50 and 60 cars had external regulators and I think my
74 Ford pickup was external also.  My 87 was integrated.  Not sure when they
switched.

2. WHY do you want 50 volts anyway?  The ALS500 used 12 volts not 48 or 50.
The ALS 600 uses 50 volts, NOT the 500.  The 500 is designed for use as a
mobile amp.  If you do use it mobile, you need to have a battery as close to
the amp as possible and use HEAVY wires from the battery to the amp to give
the amp what it needs to operate as it was designed.

I use mine on the base with a battery because it draws 80 amps on peaks and
needs the surge current capability of the battery.  I use the battery
(actually 2 batteries) as battery backup for the station also.  It is on a
float charger to maintain charge on a daily basis.  I have both a battery
buss and a power supply buss on the back or the radio bench and they can be
and are connected together when in use by a 60 amp switch (Air Conditioner
disconnect removed from the metal outdoor box it comes in ($10)) through 25
ft of no. 12 wire rolled in a coil except for the 2 ft I need to get to the
front of the bench where the 60 amp switch is mounted.  The long coiled wire
is to buffer the 70 amp power supply from the serious current surges the
ALS500 needs to operate.

"Works great and lasts a long time."

My two cents.

73, Jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "DavidE Benedict" <iam at pmug.org>
To: <bcromwell at michonline.net>; <homebrew at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: [HomeBrew] Re: RE: Homebrew Equiv. of Ameritron ALS-500M?


** Please do NOT cross-post messages when posting to HOMEBREW **

bcromwell at michonline.net writes:
>Hi David,
>
>Automotive alternators do not have the output voltage determined by
>windings but by the drive applied to the rotor windings through the
>regulator...up to the physical capacity limits of the hardware used.
>Automotive alternators have been used for welding and for powering tools
>like electric drill motors for years. If you want to consider a 50 volt
>application you can buy a 'replacement' alternator designed for use with
>an external regulator and then make your own regulator.
>
>I would not recommend driving very far on just the battery in any
>electronically controlled, fuel injected car. The auto industry has
>considered a move to 42 volt systems to help with the huge electric load
>in these cars. Maybe they can be convinced to go all the way to 48 volts
>(really 50).
>
>Bill KU8H


Thanks, Bill... Happy Friday!

Good information/thoughts.

It has been a while since my initial post and I have made a few
discoveries...one of which being the details about the output voltage vs
regulators.

Unfortunately the project is on hold for now.

But I did buy a junkyard internal regulator type Subaru alternator &
brought out all the wires so I can mess with it...do you happen to know of
any alternators which are DESIGNED for use with external regulators?

As to running w/o alternator to the car's batt...my scheme was to only
switch from that to the amplifier when transmitting, so if a person was
not terribly long-winded there would be much less chance for problems. I
already have two batts in my vehicle so I'm a bit insulated from the
problems that way, too.

David B.

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