[Heathkit] HW100/101 curiosity

Sat Jun 2 12:34:38 EDT 2012

Dick:

There is no wax in the Heathkit coils. I believe that the coil form is 
threaded.  A penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, or maybe 
WD40 might work, but in my experience the only way to remove a cracked 
slug is to use an X-Acto knife or small drill bits (use by hand, not in 
the electric drill) to carefully grind up the slug and remove the 
pieces. This assumes that you have a replacement slug in your junk box. 
Possible sources are from junked radios and TV's.

Hamtronics sells coils that you could probably rewind and adapt. The 
slugs may fit the Heath coils:

http://www.hamtronics.com/sale.htm

Though I have not dealt with him, you can  purchase used Heath parts from:

http://www.ultrawebb.com/OHP/parts.pl?page=TP-HW100-101%20Parts.htm

Don't throw the rig out the window!

                 73,

                 Bob WB2VUF

On 5/31/2012 3:41 PM, Dick KF4NS wrote:
> Thanks Bob, I did some redressing of wiring in the finals since I had made several repairs around the
> sockets. I also dressed other cables and wiring elsewhere. I also positioned the driver neutralization
> wire. Then I began to tune up on all bands again, 10M on down to 80M. All went well until I got to 80M
> and discovered that it would not load at all. I checked the HET OSC voltage and it was -.2V. I stuck the
> alignment tool in there and it popped up to -3.3V, Then 80M loaded fine except for the hissing in the
> speaker. All other bands made no speaker noise at all.
>
> This is where I opened the window and threatened to toss the %$&* radio out on the lawn, the HET OSC coil
> for 80M and 40M was hanging loose !!! I found that after removing that coil, one wire was broken, the 80M
> slug was locked tight. I tried contact cleaner, LPS1 greaseless lube, mineral spirits, Lacquer thinner,
> 100% silicone spray, then I gave up. It is cracked but still cannot remove it. I have a spare slug but
> how do I get the cracked one out? Am I correct in thinking there is no wax in these Heathkit coils? Seems
> clear in there so why is the slug stuck? Are the forms threaded or does the slug make it's own threads?
>
> Strange thing about this, I never had a slug in this rig ever get even slightly tight. What makes these
> suddenly lock  up? If I can get the bad slug out, I will reattach the loose coil wire and glue the form
> back in there, hoping to solder it back in and get 80M working again (and 40M since they are together in
> the form)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bwana Bob"<wb2vuf at verizon.net>
> To: "Dick KF4NS"<kf4nsradio at verizon.net>
> Cc:<heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 9:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [Heathkit] HW100/101 curiosity
>
>
> | Dick:
> |
> | If the peak on the driver tuning is erratic, it means that the driver
> | stage needs to be neutralized.  A squeal, coming from the final, not the
> | speaker, is a parasitic oscillation, requiring final neutralization.  If
> | the squeal comes from the speaker, spray the relay contacts with contact
> | cleaner. Sometimes there is a carbon buildup on the contacts which will
> | result in incomplete muting.
> |
> |                     73,
> |
> |                     Bob WB2VUF
> |
> | On 5/24/2012 7:15 PM, Dick KF4NS wrote:
> |>  Ok guys, sure sounds reasonable. Thanks to all for your input. While I am at it, after the problems
> and
> |>  restoration are now complete, I notice that frequently there is a strange squeal or screech coming
> from
> |>  the speaker while on the dummy load during tune-up. Everything is tied down tight and over the past
> 40+
> |>  years I never heard this before. It must be an oscillation of some sort but am going to try a
> suggestion
> |>  in the manual regarding the driver neutralizing wire but it relates to jumpy tuning; still could be a
> |>  possibility. I am sure I must have moved that wire at some point during the repairs. The finals are
> not
> |>  yet neutralized but are the original ones from before the crash (6293s added in 2003). Well, we will
> see.
> |>  73, Dick KF4NS
> |>  St Petersburg, FL 33714 USA
> |>  Keep The Glow!
> |>
> |>  ----- Original Message -----
> |>  From: "Bwana Bob"<wb2vuf at verizon.net>
> |>  To: "Dick KF4NS"<kf4nsradio at verizon.net>
> |>  Cc: "Heath puck list"<heath at puck.nether.net>;<heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
> |>  Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 10:26 PM
> |>  Subject: Re: [Heathkit] HW100/101 curiosity
> |>
> |>
> |>  | Dick:
> |>  |
> |>  | Well, this is my opinion:
> |>  |
> |>  | Tuning the het osc coils in receive mode  gets you in the ballpark, so
> |>  | the receive tuning is preliminary. The tuning for maximum transmitter
> |>  | output is more critical. Just tuning on receive will not maximize
> |>  | transmitter output.  Just tuning on transmit, one might miss the peak
> |>  | entirely.
> |>  |
> |>  | Even though the jumpers between the finals are short, they do have some
> |>  | inductance. Heath probably wanted to keep the impedance to ground very
> |>  | low so as to prevent the jumper inductance from causing parasitic
> |>  | oscillations in the final.
> |>  |
> |>  | Bob WB2VUF
> |>  |
> |>  | On 5/23/2012 8:15 PM, Dick KF4NS wrote:
> |>  |>   Hi guys,
> |>  |>
> |>  |>   A couple things have always bugged me so I will ask the questions now and see what I can
> determine.
> |>  |>
> |>  |>   In the alignment, I have always wondered why, after all the time spent adjusting the HET. OSC.
> coils
> |>  to
> |>  |>   the spec, why do we need to start all over again when we do the transmit alignment ??
> |>  |>
> |>  |>   Also, in the finals, pins 1, 4 and 6 are tied together between the two tubes, so why the
> redundancy
> |>  with
> |>  |>   three .005 mfd bypass caps on each tube? Would it not be just fine to have only one cap for both
> |>  tubes
> |>  |>   instead of six caps ?  The tube spacing is so close I see no need for the multiple caps.
> |>  |>
> |>  |>   73, Dick KF4NS
> |>  |>   St Petersburg, FL 33714 USA
> |>  |>   Keep The Glow!
> |>  |>
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>
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