[Heathkit] HW100/101 curiosity

[Dick KF4NS]

Ron et al,
Thanks to all for the great advice.  I went to work on the coil after removing it from the ckt board. As 
I said, none of the chemicals were any help. Using Ron's suggestion, after removing the slug from the 
other end, I used the jewelers mini screwdriver and scraped the only crack that I could see and piece by 
piece it fell apart. I tried to put the spare slug replacement in the form and it was pretty tight. I 
washed out the form with contact cleaner and it went in so good I  thought it would fall out.

I then soldered the one coil wire back on and glued the form back to the base with GC radio-tv service 
cement and after setting it was good and tight, put the other slug for 40M back in,ready to put back on 
the circuit board. Both slugs are almost too slippery. I fired it up on both bands (80M and 40M) and all 
is fine 100%. TX output is a bit low but the finals are not new. All bands range from 70W on 10M to 100W 
on 20M,

NO MORE MESSING WITH WHAT WORKS !!!!!. I will still add the tap at the 2nd IF for my SB610 which at worst 
may lower the IF gain just a tad. Nothing to worry about. That is an easy fix if necessary, just drop the 
value of the screen resistor a bit.

Again, my sincere thanks to all for the bandwidth and their great replies. You guys are great !

73, Dick KF4NS
St Petersburg, FL 33714 USA
Keep The Glow!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Youvan" <ka4inm at tampabay.rr.com>
To: "Dick KF4NS" <kf4nsradio at verizon.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] HW100/101 curiosity


|   Hi  Dick KF4NS:
|
| > Thanks Bob, I did some redressing of wiring in the finals since I had made several repairs around the
| > sockets. I also dressed other cables and wiring elsewhere. I also positioned the driver 
neutralization
| > wire. Then I began to tune up on all bands again, 10M on down to 80M. All went well until I got to 
80M
| > and discovered that it would not load at all. I checked the HET OSC voltage and it was -.2V. I stuck 
the
| > alignment tool in there and it popped up to -3.3V, Then 80M loaded fine except for the hissing in the
| > speaker. All other bands made no speaker noise at all.
|
| > This is where I opened the window and threatened to toss the %$&* radio out on the lawn, the HET OSC 
coil
| > for 80M and 40M was hanging loose !!! I found that after removing that coil, one wire was broken, the 
80M
| > slug was locked tight. I tried contact cleaner, LPS1 grease-less lube, mineral spirits, Lacquer 
thinner,
| > 100% silicone spray, then I gave up. It is cracked but still cannot remove it. I have a spare slug 
but
| > how do I get the cracked one out? Am I correct in thinking there is no wax in these Heathkit coils? 
Seems
| > clear in there so why is the slug stuck? Are the forms threaded or does the slug make it's own 
threads?
|
| > Strange thing about this, I never had a slug in this rig ever get even slightly tight. What makes 
these
| > suddenly lock  up? If I can get the bad slug out, I will reattach the loose coil wire and glue the 
form
| > back in there, hoping to solder it back in and get 80M working again (and 40M since they are together 
in
| > the form)
|
|   In my experiences when a slug cracks the slug will lock.  (Usually cracked from the tool.)
| If there is one crack there is another hidden one if it not obvious.
| I use the sharp edge if a jewelers screw driver to gouge out the powered iron, plowing a channel at
| the most major crack until part of the core can be slid out, then the other section can be unscrewed
| out.  I have never found any lubricant that helps with this problem.
| -- 
|    73 Ron KA4INM - All E-mail sent to this address shall linger in the Google cloud forever!