[Heathkit] Heathkit Digest, Vol 103, Issue 16

bonddaleena at aol.com bonddaleena at aol.com
Thu Aug 23 17:38:55 EDT 2012


Hi Lee. I collect older test equipment. I have several FET multimeters from different companies. They were very popular when FETs were 'new'. Unfortunately, some of the meters use 'hand selected' FETs which are now made of unobtanium.
One of my favorites right now, is a multimeter that was sold by Sears. It has a beautiful taut-band meter (with mirror for parallax correction) and it also has a nice digital display. Not cheap, but worth the $$$$.

ron
N4UE



-----Original Message-----
From: heathkit-request <heathkit-request at mailman.qth.net>
To: heathkit <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thu, Aug 23, 2012 12:10 pm
Subject: Heathkit Digest, Vol 103, Issue 16


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oday's Topics:
   1. Analog High Impedence FET Multimeter (pulsarxp at embarqmail.com)
  2. Been MIA (pulsarxp at embarqmail.com)
  3. Re: MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche. (Mike Olbrisch)
  4. Re: MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche. (Glen Zook)
  5. Re: MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche. (Mike Olbrisch)
  6. Re: MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche. (Mike Olbrisch)
  7. Re: MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche. (Glen Zook)

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
ate: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 16:31:51 -0500
rom: <pulsarxp at embarqmail.com>
ubject: [Heathkit] Analog High Impedence FET Multimeter
o: <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
essage-ID: <C0A1102229C143729EB0C7DE3CD8D27C at BahrPC>
ontent-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="utf-8";
reply-type=original
I have been using, for years, an Analog ECG FET-43 Multimeter. It?s like 
aving a VTVM but solid state. They don?t load down a circuit and are also 
nalog which is great for peaking coils during alignment. (10Megohm DC) Mine 
as been used a lot and I began to think it is wearing out and I need a new 
ne. Not that easy! I was able to locate a new replacement now set aside for 
afe keeping until the day my original one fails.

 think, maybe ECG has stopped making this meter. (My original one actually 
ad another brand name on it then the ECG logo). More then likely the 
anufacturer no longer makes it for anyone. I can?t imagine getting along 
ithout one of these meters. I see a few web sites listing this meter but I 
m not convinced they still offer them. If I could not have found a 
eplacement, I was resigned to the idea of rebuilding an old Heathkit VTVM I 
ould pick up somewhere.

hat said, you guys out there might seriously consider picking up an ECG-43 
ET multimeter if you can find a new one out there. I am sure the market is 
rying up. This might be close to the ?end of the line? finding one. I think 
ny out there are NOS and still on a few retailers shelves. (My original 
ost me around $45 back 15 years ago and my new one cost around $70). You 
ould do yourself a BIG FAVOR finding one and buying it.

his is not a heavy duty industrial meter that can be dropped off the Empire 
tate Building and survive, but with TLC, it will last a very long time. I 
ove this meter. I don?t see any other FET Multimeter like this available 
nywhere by any manufacturer today. I?m treating mine like GOLD.
Lee, w0vt
ouston, Texas 

------------------------------
Message: 2
ate: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 16:47:00 -0500
rom: <pulsarxp at embarqmail.com>
ubject: [Heathkit] Been MIA
o: <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
essage-ID: <86EFF50261E64C98BB1124F3B6DB5993 at BahrPC>
ontent-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="utf-8";
reply-type=response
This message is to let a few hams on this list why I have been MIA and have 
ot responded to a few e-mails sent me over the last couple of months.
I'm 74 years old living in Houston, Texas and have a mother 97 living in 
isconsin who has been "nearing the end" during this time.  She is still 
live as I speak.  All this has caused me to be travelling a lot and the 
ogistics of it all have been overwhelming.  SB series rigs and DX-100s have 
een way down on my daily "to do" lists.  Compounding all this has been a 
crewed up computer put in the repair shop 4 times before finally getting it 
orking properly again.
I hope I have not bored most on here too much with this e-mail.  I am not 
ooking for tears but just feel terrible for not answering some who have 
ritten me.  (At 97 a person has had a good run).  The travelling and paper 
ork over all this has really worn me out.   Hopefully those that have 
ritten me with no answer to your e-mails will understand.
Thanks,
Lee Bahr, w0vt
ouston, Texas 

------------------------------
Message: 3
ate: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 18:43:05 -0600
rom: "Mike Olbrisch" <mike-2007 at elp.rr.com>
ubject: Re: [Heathkit] MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche.
o: "_Heath_Kit_Group" <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
essage-ID: <[email protected]>
ontent-Type: text/plain;	charset="US-ASCII"
Progress!
The HP-20 power supply was the first big worry.  The power cord was in bad
hape, cracking and brittle - the plug had 2 fuses in the plug, but the
lastic of the plug was in bad shape and was held together with electrical
ape.  I replaced it all with a 3-wire computer cord in its place, with a
use holder mounted in the underside of the cabinet, in the black hot lead
f course.  Then it was time for testing.
As of this moment I believe the Power Supply is OK.  Not 100% certain, and
ere is why.
+600v is really +740v
300v is really +320v
150V is really -170v
I had the P/S running unloaded for about 5 minutes.  When I was done probing
he voltages I shut it off and picked it up to move it.  The right side of
he upper cabinet was very hot.  There is a large wire-wound resister in
here.  Is it normal for it to run so hot that the outside of the metal
abinet is hot?
I suspect that the higher voltages and perhaps also the heat is because the
upply was unloaded.  My next step would be to try powering up just the
eceiver and see if it can hear anything.
Anyone out there got experience enough on the HP-20 to tell me if this is
ormal?
Thanks a bunch.
Mike.

------------------------------
Message: 4
ate: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 18:01:32 -0700 (PDT)
rom: Glen Zook <gzook at yahoo.com>
ubject: Re: [Heathkit] MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche.
o: _Heath_Kit_Group <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>,	Mike Olbrisch
<mike-2007 at elp.rr.com>
essage-ID:
<1345683692.99416.YahooMailClassic at web121706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
ontent-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
The voltages are perfectly normal for an unloaded power supply.
Glen, K9STH

Website:  http://k9sth.com
--- On Wed, 8/22/12, Mike Olbrisch <mike-2007 at elp.rr.com> wrote:
From: Mike Olbrisch <mike-2007 at elp.rr.com>
ubject: Re: [Heathkit] MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche.
o: "_Heath_Kit_Group" <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
ate: Wednesday, August 22, 2012, 7:43 PM
Progress!
The HP-20 power supply was the first big worry.? The power cord was in bad
hape, cracking and brittle - the plug had 2 fuses in the plug, but the
lastic of the plug was in bad shape and was held together with electrical
ape.? I replaced it all with a 3-wire computer cord in its place, with a
use holder mounted in the underside of the cabinet, in the black hot lead
f course.? Then it was time for testing.
As of this moment I believe the Power Supply is OK.? Not 100% certain, and
ere is why.
+600v is really +740v
300v is really +320v
150V is really -170v
I had the P/S running unloaded for about 5 minutes.? When I was done probing
he voltages I shut it off and picked it up to move it.? The right side of
he upper cabinet was very hot.? There is a large wire-wound resister in
here.? Is it normal for it to run so hot that the outside of the metal
abinet is hot?
I suspect that the higher voltages and perhaps also the heat is because the
upply was unloaded.? My next step would be to try powering up just the
eceiver and see if it can hear anything.
Anyone out there got experience enough on the HP-20 to tell me if this is
ormal?
Thanks a bunch.
Mike.
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-----------------------------
Message: 5
ate: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 20:59:46 -0600
rom: "Mike Olbrisch" <mike-2007 at elp.rr.com>
ubject: Re: [Heathkit] MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche.
o: "'_Heath_Kit_Group'" <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
essage-ID: <[email protected]>
ontent-Type: text/plain;	charset="US-ASCII"
Looking ahead.... I need two other parts for the MT-1 Cheyenne.  It is
issing a knob.  It is a small knob, used for the AUDIO control, same knob
s the SPOTTING switch or the OFF switch, also matching the LIMITER, AVC and
NT TUNING knobs on the MR-1 Comanche.  Probably used on other Heathkit
adios.
Anyone have one?
I also need the clear plastic window that covers the slide-rule tuning
ndicator.
Anyone have one?
If available, please reply with price and requirements.  And I do so
ppreciate any help.  Today has been a good day on this set already!
It looks like all the parts of the MR-1 COMANCHE are all there, and it
ights up without smoking or other odd things.  I will begin cleaning it up
ext while I wait for a switch wafer to repair the band switch.
Thanks Y-all.
Vy73 - Mike.



------------------------------
Message: 6
ate: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 08:24:21 -0600
rom: "Mike Olbrisch" <mike-2007 at elp.rr.com>
ubject: Re: [Heathkit] MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche.
o: "'Mike Hyder  -N4NT-'" <Mike_N4NT at charter.net>,
"'_Heath_Kit_Group'" <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
essage-ID: <[email protected]>
ontent-Type: text/plain;	charset="US-ASCII"
Thanks - learned even more today.  <grin>.
They must be a brushed finish knob - they certainly are not chromed.
Mike.
-----Original Message-----
rom: Mike Hyder -N4NT- [mailto:Mike_N4NT at charter.net] 
ent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 08:12
o: Mike Olbrisch
ubject: Re: [Heathkit] MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche.
Suggest you specify which knob finish you need to match other knobs. Those 
ere supplied in a brushed finish and in a bright chrome finish at various 
imes.
73 and good luck with your project.
Mike  -N4NT-
----- Original Message ----- 
rom: "Mike Olbrisch" <mike-2007 at elp.rr.com>
o: "'_Heath_Kit_Group'" <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
ent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 22:59
ubject: Re: [Heathkit] MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche.

 Looking ahead.... I need two other parts for the MT-1 Cheyenne.  It is
 missing a knob.  It is a small knob, used for the AUDIO control, same knob
 as the SPOTTING switch or the OFF switch, also matching the LIMITER, AVC 
 and
 ANT TUNING knobs on the MR-1 Comanche.  Probably used on other Heathkit
 radios.

 Anyone have one?

 I also need the clear plastic window that covers the slide-rule tuning
 indicator.

 Anyone have one?

 If available, please reply with price and requirements.  And I do so
 appreciate any help.  Today has been a good day on this set already!

 It looks like all the parts of the MR-1 COMANCHE are all there, and it
 lights up without smoking or other odd things.  I will begin cleaning it 
 up
 next while I wait for a switch wafer to repair the band switch.

 Thanks Y-all.

 Vy73 - Mike.





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-----------------------------
Message: 7
ate: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 08:10:50 -0700 (PDT)
rom: Glen Zook <gzook at yahoo.com>
ubject: Re: [Heathkit] MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche.
o: Mike Olbrisch <mike-2007 at elp.rr.com>,	'Mike Hyder -N4NT-'
<Mike_N4NT at charter.net>,	'_Heath_Kit_Group' <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
essage-ID:
<1345734650.45496.YahooMailNeo at web121704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
ontent-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
The brushed aluminum knobs were used on the KL-1 (Chippewa), MT-1, MR-1, and 
X-1 (Apache). ?The RX-1 (Mohawk) and HA-10 (Warrior), later versions, were 
vailable with either brushed aluminum or chrome plated knobs depending on if 
ou wanted to match the Apache or Marauder. ?The earlier versions came with 
rushed aluminum knobs.The HR-20, HW-10, HW-20, HX-10 (Marauder), HX-20, and 
X-30 all came with chrome plated knobs.
Of course, the knobs did get changed by the owners on a lot of the Heath 
quipment so there are many individual examples with the "wrong" knobs.
The brushed aluminum knobs can be polished so that they approach the chrome 
lated versions. ?However, even when highly polished, the brushed aluminum knobs 
till don't exactly match the chrome plated versions. ?Close, but definitely not 
 cigar!
My particular MR-1, MT-1, RX-1, and TX-1 all have brushed aluminum knobs. ?But, 
y HA-10 does have the chrome plated knobs.

len, K9STH

ebsite:  http://k9sth.com

_______________________________
From: Mike Olbrisch <mike-2007 at elp.rr.com>
o: 'Mike Hyder  -N4NT-' <Mike_N4NT at charter.net>; '_Heath_Kit_Group' 
heathkit at mailman.qth.net> 
ent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 9:24 AM
ubject: Re: [Heathkit] MT-1 Cheyenne and MR-1 Comanche.

hanks - learned even more today.? <grin>.
They must be a brushed finish knob - they certainly are not chromed.

rom: Mike Hyder -N4NT- [mailto:Mike_N4NT at charter.net] 
Suggest you specify which knob finish you need to match other knobs. Those 
ere supplied in a brushed finish and in a bright chrome finish at various 
imes.
------------------------------
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eathkit mailing list
ome: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/heathkit
elp: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
ost: mailto:Heathkit at mailman.qth.net
List Administrator: Duane Fischer, W8DBF
* For Assistance: dfischer at usol.com ** 

his list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
lease help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
End of Heathkit Digest, Vol 103, Issue 16
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