[Heathkit] DX-60 Problem

Robert & Linda McGraw K4TAX RMcGraw at Blomand.Net
Mon Mar 13 10:39:58 EST 2006


One thing to watch for in older rigs are the 1 W and 2 W carbon resistors. 
They typically migrate up in value as they age.  This is also impacted with 
the voltage across the R as well.  Check them in circuit with a ohm meter. 
They should read the value of the R or lower.  If one should read higher, 
replace it.  My experience is that electrolytics dry with age and the MFD 
value will decrease.  Anything over say 20+ years should have the 
electrolytics replaced with equal value and equal voltage units.  Don't 
increase the value of the C too much.  A higher value voltage rating is OK 
if you have the space as they are typically a bit larger in size.

In troubleshooting, I DO NOT replace any component until I determine it to 
be defective.  I've followed too many techs that have replaced old parts 
with new parts only to find that it did not solve the problem but actually 
introduced another problem.  New parts do not assure one of good parts.

With a VOM and a scope, the DX-60 is a breeze to troubleshoot and fix. 
Check solder connections visually and de-solder and any that appear unsound 
and the re-solder them.  Also, with kits, there's two approaches: (a) it is 
wired correct and once worked thus something is defective, or (b) it is 
wired wrong and never worked.  A bit of time spend pouring over the 
schematic and the unit will turn up the truth.

73
Bob, K4TAX
A connoisseur of fine radios


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Brannigan" <jbrannig at optonline.net>
To: "Kenneth G Gordon" <kgordon2006 at verizon.net>; "Gary Pewitt" 
<n9zsv at cei.net>
Cc: <Heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] DX-60 Problem


>I agree with Ken.  I was not a fan of shotgun parts replacement.  However, 
>many components in these old radios were not the best quality when new and 
>have only deteriorated with age.
> It is now my practice to replace all capacitors (until it works) in this 
> order:
> 1) Electrolytics
> 2) Paper
> 3) Disc ceramics
> 4) Silver micas
> And all the resistors in the HV supplies.
> If the problem persists I replace all the resistors in the stage.
> When you are done, the radio has, almost, all new parts and will purr like 
> a kitten.
>
> Jim
>
>
>> On 12 Mar 2006 at 20:10, Gary Pewitt wrote:
>>
>>> Harry, I wouldn't be surprised if there were wiring errors.  One sure 
>>> way
>>> to fix it would be to get a manual and strip it down to a bare chassis
>>> before rebuilding it.  Check each component before wiring it in  and
>>> replace anything out of spec.  Works every time and it's fun.
>>> 73  Gary
>>
>> I call that "re-kitting" and, so far, it has worked every time to fix
>> problems I couldn't track down.
>>
>> My most recent "re-kit" jobs are two AR-3s. They will look and work like
>> new when I get them finished.
>>
>> Ken Gordon W7EKB
>
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