[Heathkit] WTB: variable capacitor for HW-101

[Edward B Richards]

Thanks, Tom;

I have already replaced the cap. I will play with the old one when I have
time. Right now it is on the back burner.

Ed Richards K6UUZ


On Fri, 26 Dec 2003 08:48:37 -0600 Tom in N Texas <tdulin@pulse.net>
writes:
> Ed,
> 
> I raised the lid on my SB-101 and looked at it. I don't think you 
> have to 
> open the plates to get the bearing balls out. Leave 'em closed and 
> remove 
> the bearings. Then remove the jacks, open the plates and take out 
> the rotor.
> 
> I think this is how the capacitors were assembled at the factory. 
> How else?
> 
> There is a little play in the pre-loading spring at the rear end of 
> the 
> shaft. However it doesn't appear to be enough to get the bearing 
> balls out. 
> It would be nice to compress the end-play spring to minimize need to 
> spread 
> the frame. I would put the frame/shaft in a vise and gently squeeze 
> to 
> compress the end-play spring. Then use the jacks to spread the frame 
> apart 
> to remove the bearing balls. Reverse to re-assemble.
> 
> 
> It would be nice if you could use an inside micrometer to measure 
> how much 
> you squeezed the frame to correct the spacing problem. Measure 
> between the 
> frame ends at the outer edge. The critical measurements are: Before 
> starting, minimum distance (maximum squeeze applied) and final 
> spacing. 
> This would give the change in spacing and the spring-back. Helpful 
> for 
> anyone else who wants to use the method by saving time 
> experimenting.
> 
> I think you would have to be very patient to make this work and get 
> the 
> measurements.
> 
> The jacks would be good to make the final adjustment after the 
> capacitor is 
> re-assembled. Again, measure to see how much you jacked it open and 
> how 
> much spring-back.
> 
> I would suggest bending/bowing the end-play spring a little more, 
> but only 
> a little, because you may have to open the frame too much to 
> compensate.
> 
> Easiest solution is to buy Frank, WB4EHB's capacitor.
> 
> Please tell us how it comes out.
> 
> Good Luck and 73,
> 
> Tom Dulin KC5INU
> 
> ------- YOU WROTE -------
> Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 15:31:03 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Heathkit] Heathkit] WTB: variable capacitor for HW-101
> 
> From: k6uuz@juno.com
> 
> Thanks, Tom. Where do the jacks go? They can't go inside the frame 
> as the 
> rotor plates cover the holes when open.
> 
> Ed Richards K6UUZ
> 
> ------- TOM DULIN WROTE -------
> 
> I have never had occasion to try this, but it sounds good:
> 
> 1. Make two little jacks out of threaded standoffs and screws.
> 
> 2. Jack the two ends of the frame apart enough to drop out the ball 
> bearings.
> 
> 3. Bend the frame ends together, with a vise for good control. Use 
> spacers 
> in the vise to apply force at the correct points
> 
> 4. Jack it apart again, just enough to get the bearings back in.
> 
> 5. Install bearings, using heavy grease to keep them in place.
> 
> 6. Remove the grease, if desired.
> 
> 7. use the new jacks to adjust torque.
> 
> 8. Tell us how it works.
> 
> 73,
> Tom Dulin KC5INU
> 
> 
> 
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