[HCARC] Antenna Tuners
ALoneStarYank at aol.com
ALoneStarYank at aol.com
Mon Oct 8 15:23:55 EDT 2012
MFJ uses young people, usually college kids off during the summer, to
assemble their products. In many of these tuners they don't tighten the screws
and nuts properly and the soldered joints are sometimes questionable. I,
myself, use MFJ tuners for field work only after I've given them the "once
over".
There are several things about using tuners:
When using a tuner on 160 meters, you need to de-rate the tuner wattage by
at least 2/3. A 300 watt tuner can only handle 100 watts (barely) on 160
meters or arcing can occur.
When buying a tuner, look at the switches very closely. The flimsy
wafer-type band switch (also called a tapped coil switch) which MFJ uses, needs to
be replaced with a heavier duty ceramic switch or it will burn out.
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER change your tapped coil switch selection with RF
flowing thru it. (or any other switch for that matter) It will cause the
contacts to arc and might even blow your rigs finals.
Before MFJ took over Ameritron and Vectronics, they had decent tuners, as
did a few others. Palstar tuners are also a great buy. The MFJ 971 tuner
should be avoided when you use anything over 10 watts although it can
handle 100 watts. The reason is the cheap design. The two knobs that are
screwed onto the capacitor shafts do not have insulated couplings so RF is
directly connected to the set screws and touching them during operation can cause
rf burns! I wrote to MFJ about 15 years ago and their reply was: "So don't
touch the knobs!".
At home, I use an "Amp Supply AT1200" which hasn't been made in about 20
years. You can't kill it... lol
If built properly, the Heathkit tuners are great, so are the Johnson/Viking
tuners although some have no metering. Kenwood has a nice tuner, I believe
the model is AT-230.
I shy away from auto-tuners.
Bob W2IK
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