[Hallicrafters] Panel Lettering

Sat Jan 21 13:52:46 EST 2012

Thank you Mike. Good information!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Everette" <radiocompass at yahoo.com>
To: <Roger at new-gate.co.uk>; "KA1KAQTodd" <ka1kaq at gmail.com>; "Ron Kolarik" 
<rkolarik at neb.rr.com>
Cc: "Carl" <km1h at jeremy.mv.com>; <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] Panel Lettering

A heads-up on decal setting solutions:

Micro Scale products are excellent as long as they are used as intended --  
with THIN FILM decals (a la Micro Scale's own products).  These decals are 
indeed thin; and they can be tricky to handle especially if you have little 
experience with water slide decals.  An X-Acto knife and a small camel hair 
brush are essential tools for this job.

BUT:  Nicro Scale setting solutions are not nearly as effective with thicker 
decals, because they aren't strong enough to soften the thicker film enough 
to make it conform to the surface beneath the decal.

Also be aware, Micro Scale is a TWO part process.  It requires Micro-Sol to 
soften the decal film, followed by Micro-Set to make it settle into the 
surface.  Micro Scale is the only line of decals which uses a two-part 
process.

A great product is Walthers Solvaset, which I am told is still available. 
Model train shops which cater to craftsman-type builders may have it or may 
be able to get it.  Solvaset is rather strong stuff, but it will really make 
decals settle into a surface, just like paint.

Walthers Solvaset is not for use with thin film decals; but it does wonders 
on the thicker films.

The advantage of thin film is that the decal is more flexible and can settle 
into its backing surface easier, even if that surface is irregular (such as 
a wrinkle finish) with less chance of adhesion problems.  But thin film 
requires nerves of steel and very steady hands.  It is NOT for beginners.

The key to getting a good decal job is PATIENCE.

Put the decal where you want it, using WATER.  Then wick the water away with 
a dry brush, or a tissue or paper towel.  DON'T touch the decal.

Then, use a brush to apply the setting solution around the edges of the 
decal.  Let it alone, and it will start to settle down.  When the setting 
solution evaporates, take a sharp straight pin and gently prick the decal in 
numerous places.  Then apply more setting solution; the stuff will work its 
way underneath the decal.

If you see "silver spots" in the film, this indicates a lack of adhesion to 
the under-surface.  Prick these silver spots and use more setting solution.

Keep this up until the decal is fully adhered, as evidenced by lack of 
silvering.  Then DO NOT TOUCH IT UNTIL IT IS FULLY DRY.  This may take 24 
hours.  PATIENCE.

Once it's dry, it can be over-coated with Testors Glosscote or Dullcote 
aerosol clear spray, depending upon what kind of finish you want.

Let the overcoat dry THOROUGHLY before you even think about touching it. 
Overnight is good.

Some prefer to spray the surface the decal is to be applied to with a gloss 
clear finish before decaling.  This does make things a bit easier; but in my 
considerable experience with decals, I've found that PATIENCE and PROPER USE 
of the CORRECT decal setting solutions can usually work on any surface 
unless it's REALLY rough.

If you do use a gloss undercoat first, it MUST BE TOTALLY DRY before you go 
trying to lay decals over it!

Be warned, there are some decal brands that do not respond to setting 
solutions of any kind.  Years ago I used to build model planes, mostly from 
kits by Monogram and Revell but others too.  Many times the Monogram 
kit-supplied decals, especially, refused to respond to anything but plain 
water!  Why, I don't know.  Their film did seem rather thick, but not all 
that thick.

Thick film decals aren't inherently bad; they are easier to work with.  But 
they do require a lot more care to avoid "bubbles" and silvering. 
Sometimes, carefully cutting a slit in a thick film decal -- AFTER it has 
settled into place, of course -- with a VERY sharp X-Acto knife can really 
help the setting solution get under the film and do its job better.  But 
again, some thick decals defy setting solutions.  Just see what works.  If 
the solution doesn't appear to be helping, wash it away with water and use 
more water on the decal.

DON'T use setting solutions with dry transfers.  I haven't found any that 
work with transfers.

I hope this helps somehow.  Remember, PATIENCE is the key.

If you have not PATIENCE, either acquire it, or you have no business in this 
business.  That is the facts.

73

Mike
W4DSE

--- On Fri, 1/20/12, Ron Kolarik <rkolarik at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> From: Ron Kolarik <rkolarik at neb.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] Panel Lettering
> To: Roger at new-gate.co.uk, "Todd, KA1KAQ" <ka1kaq at gmail.com>
> Cc: "Carl" <km1h at jeremy.mv.com>, hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
> Date: Friday, January 20, 2012, 3:34 PM
> If you're going to use waterslide
> decals then look at the products
> that plastic modelers use to apply and set them. Take a
> look
> at Microscale, http://www.microscale.com/ , not the only
> source
> but popped in my head first. Any good shop that caters to
> plastic
> model builders or train hobbyists should have it.
>
> Ron
> K0IDT
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Roger Basford" <Roger at new-gate.co.uk>
> To: "Todd, KA1KAQ" <ka1kaq at gmail.com>
> Cc: "Carl" <km1h at jeremy.mv.com>;
> <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 2:11 PM
> Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] Panel Lettering
>
>
> > On 20/01/2012 17:46, Todd, KA1KAQ wrote:
> >> On Fri, Jan 20, 2012 at 12:38 PM, Roger
> Basford<Roger at new-gate.co.uk>
> wrote:
> >>
> >>> I'm looking at the
> >>> RadioDaze decals with a view to ordering some
> of those, any feelings on
> >>> their suitability for wrinkle paint?
> >> Unless they're a newer material that partially
> dissolves or conforms
> >> better to the texture, I don't think you'll be
> very happy with them.
> >> Particularly if you have a dense, heavy wrinkle. I
> haven't used any
> >> kind of transfer in years due to this. Maybe
> things have progressed
> >> since then?
> >>
> >> Some companies actually painted then engraved the
> panels to produce
> >> crisp aluminum lettering. Hammarlund did this on
> the early Super Pros
> >> and Collins used the approach on their broadcast
> line. Looks nice but
> >> precludes repainting to some extent. It would
> probably cost a bit, but
> >> if you have an accurate copy of the original
> layout, it's something
> >> else to consider.
> >>
> >> ~ Todd/KAQ
> >>
> >>
> > OK Todd,
> >
> > That's disappointing; The RD decals aren't especially
> expensive and they
> > have the Hallicrafters company font, although
> there's airmail to add to
> > the prices and I really need to buy their recommended
> sealer which will
> > no doubt cause shipping issues with the Post Office!
> Anyway, I have an
> > old BC-614 mounting plate to experiment on, so can see
> what it looks
> > like before I attack the pristine powder-coating!
> >
> > 73
> >
> > Roger/G3VKM
> >
> >
> >
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