[Hallicrafters] EXT :Re: Power washing a dusty, grimy rig??

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

Well, you know what they say, Mike - there's no accounting for
ignorance or stupidity. We've all done something in our radio lives
that, through ignorance, ended up causing damage. Maybe using 409 and
wiping dial markings or panel labels off, using the wrong size or type
of tool and mangling hardware, etc etc. Was a time not many years ago
when trial and error was the best option, regardless. With access to
so much knowledge today through the internet especially, there's
really no reason not to ask for help. And there will always be some
who "know better" or more than anyone else, who will saturate the
innards with oil and any other number of things. As Ron White says,
"You can't fix stupid". Fortunately, we can offer tips for those who
wish to learn.

I've left skin on those metal tubes in years past! 6F6s and the 5Z4
come to mind. After the first lesson 'ignorance' becomes stupidity
rather quickly. (o:

~ Todd/KAQ


On Sun, Oct 2, 2011 at 8:06 PM, Mike Everette <radiocompass at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Todd,
>
> You are right about pre-painted chassis, of course... for instance National SW-3, HRO and other receivers.  And as you correctly state, these were painted before assembly and then the finish was hard-baked in.
>
> What I had in mind when commenting was a different story... the misguided attempts by some "restorers" to spruce up an old chassis by painting it. One particularly nasty case I've encountered was a Crosley table-top "cathedral" radio with a rusty chassis that some Alexandre Dumas(s) had hosed with aluminum paint.  To his credit, he did know enough to mask the things that should've been masked; but the radio smelled like a light bulb that had been color-painted over, while it was playing.  And it really was a stinker.  That's only one out at least three that I've come across.
>
> And then there's the audiophool who restored a vintage amplifier and wanted his metal octal tubes to look new.  You guessed it... he painted the 6L6's with Rust-Oleum Gloss Black.
>
> Do not try this at home....
>
> 73
>
> Mike
> W4DSE
>
>
> --- On Sun, 10/2/11, Todd, KA1KAQ <ka1kaq at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Todd, KA1KAQ <ka1kaq at gmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] EXT :Re: Power washing a dusty, grimy rig??
>> To: "Mike Everette" <radiocompass at yahoo.com>
>> Cc: "hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net" <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>, "Michael Peron" <mikeqrpfun at aol.com>, "Bill (ES)Stevens" <william.stevens at ngc.com>
>> Date: Sunday, October 2, 2011, 6:15 PM
>> On Sat, Oct 1, 2011 at 11:45 AM, Mike
>> Everette <radiocompass at yahoo.com>
>> wrote:
>> > In the immortal words of "the Fonz" --
>> Correct-a-mundo!
>>
>> Well, not exactly. A number of sets used painted chassis
>> over the
>> years. They didn't have a problem with out-gassing. They
>> were
>> generally painted before assembly and baked or otherwise
>> cured
>> afterward. Same principals still apply today. I've had no
>> problem
>> baking assembled chassis in the 125-150 degree range after
>> removing
>> things like plastic dials and such. In fact, carbon
>> resistors and
>> transformers can benefit from a mild baking to remove the
>> moisture
>> that both readily absorb over time.
>>
>> Steel wool is also a handy tool in the proper circumstances
>> and
>> application. Not a good idea to use it on softer metals or
>> surfaces
>> that can hold little bits for later rusting. Also not a
>> good idea to
>> use it inside electronics were the droppings can cause
>> arcing. Four
>> aught steel wool is excellent for polishing hardware and a
>> number of
>> other uses.
>>
>> The trick to both is doing it correctly. Neither are
>> inherently bad,
>> though the application of any tips listed so far can as bad
>> as
>> anything else, if done improperly.
>>
>> There is no substitute for experience and moderation. When
>> in doubt,
>> ask questions. Seek out those with years of experience.
>>
>> ~ Todd,  KA1KAQ/4
>>
>