[Hallicrafters] S22R help needed

Mike Everette radiocompass at yahoo.com
Tue Jan 8 23:05:13 EST 2008


Michael,

I hate to have to say this, but your radio sounds
prety thoroughly wasted.  You'd probably be better off
finding another receiver in better shape and using
this one for a parts source.  Yours may well be beyond
economical repair.  The items you need can easily cost
you several times what the entire radio cost, if you
buy them on eVilBay.

An excellent source of Halli parts is Gary Brown,
WZ1M.  Do a Google search for "Tubes_Tubes_Tubes" and
you'll find his web site; look under "Boatanchor
Parts."

The bandspread dial from an S-20R, and perhaps that
from an S-27 or S-36, will be the same as for the
S-22R.  The speaker is a 3.2 ohm impedance, permanent
magnet type; this is fortunate because the S-19R,
S-20R etc use field-coil speakers which aren't the
same as the one in the 22R.  The speaker in the 22R is
either a 4 or 5 inch (can't recall which) round type,
which is relatively common.

I'm not aware of any published top and/or bottom
photos of this radio with arrows which locate the
components, as in a Sams Photofact.  The S-22R was
made before Sams Photofacts existed.  The original
Hallicrafters S-22R manual is available on line at
http://bama.sbc.edu and it has photos, but they are
not clear at all.  The only other information is the
Rider's Trouble Shooter schematic which is available
on line at www.nostalgiaair.org

I have two "different" S-22R receivers, one made in
1941 and another made in mid to late 1945.  There are 
differences in under-chassis component layout and
placement between these two runs, but they aren't
major -- just enough to confuse someone who is trying
to use one as a guide to rework another.  You just
have to get the schematic and carefully trace the
circuitry.  The upside of this is that the S-22R is
not a complex radio.

Be sure you locate and replace all the coupling
capacitors connected between the actual chassis ground
(symbol resembles a rake) and the electrical ground
(symbol resembles an arrow head).  If memory serves
me, there are three of these.  Also be sure you
replace the bypass capacitor connected from the plate
of the rectifier to ground with a cap rated for AC
voltage; and the capacitor connected between the
"ground" terminal on the antenna strip, and the
chassis.  If you don't replace these, and they are
leaky, you will likely find hum modulation on CW and
SSB signals which is very annoying on the lower bands
but can render the signals unreadable on the upper end
of the highest HF range, i.e. 20 and 17 meters.

Another capacitor which must be replaced (actually
they all need replacing, as we well know) is the one
bypassing the audio output tube plate to ground.  Use
a cap rated for 600 volts or higher.  If this one
shorts out, it will fry the output transformer.  This
transformer is unlike any other I have ever seen, in
that it has a primary impedance of about 2500 ohms and
a secondary of 500 ohms (feeding the phone jack)
tapped at 3.2 ohms (feeding the speaker).  The only
correct replacement, in terms of impedance and
physical size,  will come from another S-22R.

You must have the dial lights in the filament circuit
in order for the ballast resistor circuit to work
correctly.  Otherwise it might burn out. The ballast
resistors, which look like a metal octal tube, are not
common; in fact they are almost in the category of
Unobtanium.

The bottom plate must be in place to do a proper front
end alignment of these radios.  If you can't find one,
you may be able to make one using a tracing from an
original, and a thin piece of metal.

The tuning knob is the same one used on the band
spread for the SX-28.  If fits a 1/4 inch shaft.  They
are around, but can be quite costly.  I have seen
these knobs sell for insane prices on eVilBay.

Speaking of knobs, be sure to put a drop of
penetrating oil on the set screws of each of the knobs
and let it soak in overnight, before trying to remove
the knobs.  The screws may be frozen in place and if
you try to force them, the slots may break.  I have
had this happen to me.  It is not at all fun to remove
a knob with a broken set screw.

Be sure to use an isolation transformer when working
on the S-22R or any other metal-cased AC-DC radio. 
These sets become deadly if plugged in so that the
high side of the line is connected to the chassis! 
They can kill you!

Be Careful, but have fun.  The S-22R, properly
restored, is a surprisingly fine radio.

73

Mike
WA4DLF




      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs


More information about the Hallicrafters mailing list