[Hallicrafters] HT33B Restoration Project
Roger K8RI
hallicraftersgroup at rogerhalstead.com
Mon Jul 11 00:44:17 EDT 2005
In my opinion the HT-33 series is a good place to start. It consists of
chassis and sub chassis which are all relatively simple. Even the PS is
built on a soft, but thick Aluminum chassis.
Probably the most difficult thing to replace would be the band switch and I
think you can find them or their equivelants *relatively* easy.
With a bit of practice, patience, time, and maybe a bit of extra Aluminum
all you need are some basic metal working tools. The Aluminum is Alodyned
which is a fairly simple process, if noxious. None of the parts are large so
you only need relatively small tanks for the process and could probably find
plastic kitchen ware containers of the proper size.
The etch (Phosphoric Acid) although an acid is not like working with some
of the more potent acids but it does require care and fresh air.
The cabinet is steel which can be stripped, primed and painted. The only
difficult part to refinish would be the panel as it has a black crinkle
finish on the bezel which is quite large. Still, a complete rebuild is
probably simpler than just a refurbishing of an HT-32 or SX-101.
Finding a *good* PL-172 could be a problem. There are lots of them that have
never been used and being a glass to metal seal they'd be better off if
they'd been fired up about once every couple of months and let cook.
However if you want the outside authentic, but the inside to work well, you
could replace the PL-772/8295A with a new 4CX1600B tube, socket,
and chimney. The only drawback would be cooling as the 4CX1600B is designed
for a lot more air flow and pressure drop than the original tube. Another
tube which uses less air pressure is the 3CX1200 which is pretty much the
equivelant of a 3-500Z with an external anode "If I remember correctly".
At any rate you have a lot of options there including keeping it stock.
Good luck,
Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member)
N833R - World's oldest Debonair CD-2
www.rogerhalstead.com
>
> Hi, I am now the owner of my first Boatanchor!!
>
> I recently attended a deceased estate auction. Sadly the ham had
> collected lots of vintage WWII military, domestic, and Amateur
> gear. Be had moved 3 years ago and bundled all his gear in 3
> shipping containers stored since outside in the weather.
>
> Rain leaked in and with changing temperatures the moisture evaporated
> and condensed on the steel ceiling and walls. The nett result was
> most gear was badly damaged.
>
> You can see some of the gear at the following web addresses:
>
> http://au.cactii.net/~sb/gallery/garage-sale
> http://hanham.cactii.net/Water-Damaged-Gear
>
> I bought a HT-33B Linear in pretty bad condition See:
>
> http://hanham.cactii.net/VK2BEH-HT33B-restoration
>
> The photos have provision for comments under each photo, so I would
> appreciate any assistance/advice in tackling this project as
> comments under each photo to not clog up this reflector.
>
> The aluminium is badly pitted, so is the steel. The transformers look
> pretty bad and I haven't yet tested them for short circuit. In fact
> I haven't yet determined whether they are 115 or 240 vac. The meter
> al was white powder on both sides - about a tablespoon full of Al
> oxide in the bottom. Label was totally detached. The meter mechanism
> works ok but brass is badly corroded.
>
> The PA seems ok mechanically but pitted. I have totally stripped the
> chassis but the band changing switch knob wont budge. Is the grub
> screw Bristle of Allen because cant turn it with allen key.
>
> I am still in the process of determining whether it's worthwhile
> restoring this beast - gee its heavy!!
>
>
> Has anyone else had experience with restoring one this bad?????
>
> Eddie
> VK2BEH
>
>
>
>
>
> ------- End of forwarded message -------
> ------- End of forwarded message -------
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