[Hallicrafters] HT33B Restoration Project

Roger K8RI hallicraftersgroup at rogerhalstead.com
Mon Jul 11 00:44:17 EDT 2005


In my opinion the HT-33 series is a good place to start.  It consists of 
chassis and sub chassis which are all relatively simple. Even the PS is 
built on a soft, but thick Aluminum chassis.

Probably the most difficult thing to replace would be the band switch and I 
think you can find them or their equivelants *relatively* easy.

With a bit of practice, patience, time, and maybe a bit of extra Aluminum 
all you need are some basic metal working tools.  The Aluminum is Alodyned 
which is a fairly simple process, if noxious. None of the parts are large so 
you only need relatively small tanks for the process and could probably find 
plastic kitchen ware containers of the proper size.

The etch (Phosphoric Acid) although an acid is not like working with  some 
of the more potent acids but it does require care and fresh air.

The cabinet is steel which can be stripped, primed and painted.  The only 
difficult part to refinish would be the panel as it has a black crinkle 
finish on the bezel which is quite large.  Still, a complete rebuild is 
probably simpler than just a refurbishing of an HT-32 or SX-101.

Finding a *good* PL-172 could be a problem. There are lots of them that have 
never been used and being a glass to metal seal they'd be better off if 
they'd been fired up about once every couple of months and let cook.

However if you want the outside authentic, but the inside to work well, you 
could replace the           PL-772/8295A with a new 4CX1600B tube, socket, 
and chimney.  The only drawback would be cooling as the 4CX1600B is designed 
for a lot more air flow and pressure drop than the original tube.  Another 
tube which uses less air pressure is the 3CX1200 which is pretty much the 
equivelant of a 3-500Z with an external anode "If I remember correctly".

At any rate you have a lot of options there including keeping it stock.

Good luck,

Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member)
N833R - World's oldest Debonair CD-2
www.rogerhalstead.com


>
> Hi, I am now the owner of my first Boatanchor!!
>
> I recently attended a deceased estate auction. Sadly the ham had
> collected lots of   vintage WWII military, domestic, and  Amateur
> gear. Be had moved 3 years ago and   bundled all his gear in 3
> shipping containers stored since outside in the weather.
>
> Rain leaked in and with changing temperatures the moisture evaporated
> and condensed   on the steel ceiling and walls. The nett result was
> most gear was badly damaged.
>
> You can see some of the gear at the following web addresses:
>
> http://au.cactii.net/~sb/gallery/garage-sale
> http://hanham.cactii.net/Water-Damaged-Gear
>
> I bought a HT-33B Linear in pretty bad condition See:
>
> http://hanham.cactii.net/VK2BEH-HT33B-restoration
>
> The photos have provision for comments under each photo, so I would
> appreciate  any  assistance/advice in tackling this project as
> comments under each photo to  not clog up  this reflector.
>
> The aluminium is badly pitted, so is the steel. The transformers look
> pretty bad and I   haven't yet tested them for short circuit. In fact
> I haven't yet determined whether they are   115 or 240 vac. The meter
> al was white powder on both sides - about a tablespoon  full  of Al
> oxide in the bottom. Label was totally detached. The meter mechanism
> works  ok  but brass is badly corroded.
>
> The PA seems ok mechanically but pitted. I have totally stripped the
> chassis but the   band changing switch knob wont budge. Is the grub
> screw Bristle of Allen because cant   turn it with allen key.
>
> I am still in the process of determining whether it's worthwhile
> restoring this beast - gee   its heavy!!
>
>
> Has anyone else had experience with restoring one this bad?????
>
> Eddie
> VK2BEH
>
>
>
>
>
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> ------- End of forwarded message -------
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