[Hallicrafters] Decal System

[Rich Oliver]

OK guys, what am I missing?  Even if you figure out how to do white, the 
decals I remember from my old model airplane building days have the 
markings printed on a clear, plastic film.  That film didn't look too 
bad on model airplanes but I can't imagine it would look remotely OK on 
the panel of a boatanchor, and I would think applying a decal to a 
textured surface would be a non-starter.

No, I have not tried decals on radios but I did once try restoring the 
markings on an S-20R panel with a very fine paint brush under high 
magnification.  It actually looked pretty decent until you got closer 
than 6 or 8 feet.  That leads me to think that screen painting is the 
only way to do the job right.

I have had success repairing several panels that had good markings but 
defects in the base paint in other areas.  Many guys seem to think you 
must take it down to metal and redo everything, but t'ain't necessarily 
so.  Here is how I have dealt with it:

First get matching auto paint loaded in spray cans.  Carefully take just 
the bad spots down to metal, then mask and prime.  Remove masks and 
allow the paint to dry completely, then carefully work down the paint 
buildup on the margins with a bit of #600 wet sanding carborundum paper 
glued to the end of a bent popsickle stick.  It will load up quickly so 
plan on making a number of these sanders.  Be sure to use the convex 
side of the stick.  Repeat with the matching paint until it reaches the 
level of the original paint.

Next, mask all the markings; I use Scotch tape - cut, not torn, with the 
corners rounded except one corner turned under for easy removal.  It is 
easiest to stick a piece of tape on a waxed paper backing then trim it. 
  I try to keep these as close as possible to the markings.  Next I make 
a 'soft' mask to go over those taped areas.  This mask overhangs the 
tape masks by 1/4 inch on all sides with the corners rounded on a 1/4 
inch radius.  I then affix this mask above the panel with a spacer to 
hold it 1/4 inch above the surface, squarely over the tape masks.  With 
the masks in place I hit the whole panel with one light coat from about 
18 inches.  The 'soft' mask effectively feathers new paint into old. 
When dry use a white drafting eraser to go over the feathered areas 
lightly to smooth the texture.

Yes, this is a bit of a pain but nothing like setting up a screen 
painting operation!

I have used this technique on an R-46 speaker with flaking paint and it 
looks like new.  I have even had decent results using this technique on 
the wrinkle paint of a Super-Pro.  It is wise to experiment with the 
process to get a leg up the learning curve before you start on your 
SX-88 panel.

73 & GL, Rich, KC9GQ



Mark Shaum wrote:
> Bill,
> 
> I'm proceeding along the same lines here.  The only difficulty arises
> when it is necessary to print white text, and my boatanchors use a lot
> of white silk screened lettering.
> 
> There are not many printers currently available that can print a pure
> white.  My inkjet printer isn't one of them.   There is at least one
> source of white decal kits that involves printing with an inkjet or
> laser printer, then sprinkling a white powder over the freshly printed
> page.  The flour-consistency powder is supposed to adhere to the
> inked/toner applied areas of the printed clear decal material, resulting
> in white lettering.  Sort of white powder-coating printed text.
> 
> I'm probably going to give the above a try this fall.  I suspect there
> will be quite a bit of trial and error involved.
> 
> Mark K9TR
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bill Gerhold" <k2wh at optonline.net>
> Subject: [Hallicrafters] Beldecal Wet Transfer Decal System
> 
> 
> 
>>I just purchased some clear transfer printer material from Beldecal.
> 
> Their
> 
>>system, seems pretty simple and interesting.  I have (2) HT-32 panels
> 
> that
> 
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