[Hallicrafters] Chassis Cleaning

[Barry Hauser]

Hi Bill & List

The first step in cleaning the chassis is to vacuum out as much dust as
possible.  Whatever is left turns to mud when wet and may create new
stains and/or creep into inaccessable spaces.  There are "mini"
attachment sets available for about $7-12 that work with standard vacuum
cleaners.  These come with an adaptor, small diameter hose, extension
wands, two small brush heads and a crevice tool.  They work much better
than the typical mini-vacs made for computers.  As an alternative, or
addition, use auto detailing brushes -- mainly the fat round
soft-bristled variety -- but you can also use the nylon bristle
toothbrush style for more stubborn areas.  If using a small brush, run
the vacuum and hold the nozzle nearby to draw away the dust cloud as you
free it up -- and so you don't breathe it in.

Once you lift as much of the dust as possible, you can get a better idea
of what additional cleaning is needed.  Also, make note of any rubber
stamp marks or silkscreening on the chassis.  In particular, the rubber
stampings like "Mark II" or "Series A" etc. will wash off with
practically anything and most of us like to preserve them.  Not familiar
with the HT-37, but it probably has a cad-plated steel chassis.  If there
is any white cad oxide, be careful with that -- supposed to be bad for
you.  I find that good ol' DeOxit cleans that up very well without
resorting to abrasives.

You might first try plain old soap and water -- as from Ivory bar soap. 
You might be amazed at what that does before resorting to harsher
cleaners.  Be careful with any ionizing type cleaners such as 409, Simple
Green, etc.  Don't let that stuff get onto or into tube sockets or
insulators, ceramic or phenolics.  The stuff soaks in and when it dries
can leave conductive deposits which can result in arcing.  Avoid
spraying.  If you do, mask the tube sockets, etc.  I've even used WD-40
as a chassis cleaner.  It is generally kind to the surfaces and most
silk-screening and is better used for that purpose than as a lubricant as
it leaves a film behind when it dries.

Avoid using steel wool as the fragments are difficult to spot.  If you
need to use something that abrasive in spots, use a Scotch-brite pad
instead.

Finally, consider the result you want.  It might be best to just do a
thorough surface cleaning, removing any corrosion spots, and not try to
go after every blotch.  In the process of going after perfection, you
might be removing what's left of the plating.

Good luck with it -- let us know how it turns out.

Barry

On Sun, 12 Oct 2003 15:35:49 +0600 Bill <k2wh at optonline.net> writes:
> What is the best method of cleaning up an old chassis?
> 
> I am restoring an HT-37 and the chassis is covered in what seems
> to be just a heavy layer of dust.  I will remove all the tubes,
> and then the cleaning begins.  I was thinking of building a cradle
> to hold the chassis on a small angle and using some sort of 
> cleaning
> materials to let if naturally migrate towards one end of the 
> chassis
> and it will be collected and disposed of there.
> 
> What kind of cleaning material should be used?
> 
> Your answer greatly appreciated.  This will complete my Halli 
> station
> once it is cleaned, check, tuned and tested.
> 
> K2WH
> 
> _______________________________________________
> List Administrator: Duane Fischer, W8DBF **for assistance**
> dfischer at usol.com
> ----
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> 
> 

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