[Hallicrafters] Paint Question / Problem

Thu Jun 6 18:02:25 EDT 2002

Glen (and all)	

Although you did not mention this, I know that you know how critical the surface
preparation prior to painting is. Even when the surface 'appears' clean, it very
often is not. Oil from the fingertips can cause all sorts of paint problems, as
can other contaminants not necessarily visible. Hence, a good surface prep
solution is always recommended. Readily available from any paint supplier in
your area. 	

As with most everything in life, you only get out, what you put into it. Good
surface preparation can make all the difference in how the final painted product
turns out.	

	Having done some automotive painting in my younger years, (not recommended for
those of us who can no longer see what the heck we are painting!), I agree with
Glen's observations. Not to be critical of Ron, just to make clear that painting
is not as simple and easy as it may appear. Like Glen, I found the multiple
sprays of a leaner mix worked best. Almost a fog, in some cases. Several coats,
let dry and sand down. Then spray a few more on. But then again, this is a radio
cabinet, not a custom showcar! 	

Duane W8DBF	

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From: Glen Zook <gzook at yahoo.com>
To: wa0kds at arrl.net
Cc: hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] Paint Question / Problem
Date: Thursday, June 06, 2002 5:31 PM

I have not had any problems with the spray cans from
Total Electronics.

By the way, almost all spray can paint is really
lacquer even if it is called "enamel".  Also, laquer
was used by most manufacturers on their cabinets
because it air dries very fast.  Enamel "cures" rather
than "dries".  The curing process can take days if the
humidity, temperature, etc., are not "just right". 
However, even under the best of conditions, it will
take hours for the enamel to "cure".  You have to
maintain a completely dust free atmosphere when using
enamel.  Since lacquer dries so fast, conditions do
not have to be anywhere near as exact.  When enamel is
actually used, often the painted items are "baked" in
a curing oven.

I have never found a can of paint that I could not
"thin" with the proper thinner.  For almost ten years
I owned the Motorola reconditioned equipment center
for the south-central US and we used only lacquer in
the paint booth.  However, since we were using a spray
rig, we did "cut" the lacquer about 50% (1:1) with
lacquer thinner.  You have to apply two or three
coats, but the coverage is very even.  Basically, we
used two gallon "pressure pots" and put in a gallon of
lacquer and about a gallon of thinner.  Worked great!

I don't understand why you couldn't add your own
thinner (correct type, of course) to the paint.  I
have used Mike's spray cans in the Dallas, Texas, area
when the temperature has been above 100 degrees F and
haven't had any problems.  Since I don't have an air
compressor right now, I haven't used any of his "bulk"
paints.  However, I don't think that I would have any
problems with them as well.

Mike Shelton has had a death in his family.  He put
out a notice a few days ago saying that he would not
be able to answer any E-Mails, etc.  I do know that
both his wife's parents and his parents have been in
very poor health as well as one of Mike's daughters. 
I don't know which family member died, but taking care
of five people in very poor health is very "taxing".

What were you using to paint with?  Hopefully a spray
rig.  But, no matter what type of gun you are using
("cup" or pressure system), you ALWAYS cut the paint
about 1:1 with thinner when using any type of "stock"
paint.  If you were trying to paint with a brush, then
all bets are off as to the finish you will get.  A few
paint companies will sell you "pre-thinned" paint. 
However, thinner is MUCH cheaper than paint and it is
always better to thin your own.

All of the clear coats that are readily available
(including Krylon, Rust-Oleum, etc.) are actually a
lacquer.  I have oversprayed the paint from Total
Electronics with Crystal Clear Krylon and it worked
very well.  Also, if enamel is truly cured,
overspraying with a lacquer will not affect it.

Unless you are very familar with the various types of
paints and their applications, you don't want to "fool
with" a true enamel!  I would almost offer "odds" that
the "enamel" that the local auto paint store puts into
spray cans is actually lacquer.  To my knowledge Mike
sells only lacquer.

Glen, K9STH

--- Ronald Oberloh <wa0kds at yahoo.com> wrote:

Just painted a non-Hallicrafters with some paint I
bought from Total Electronics.  It was an awful
experience partly do me to and partly do to the paint
bought from Total Electronics.

I have sent emails to Total Electronics and have not
been getting any return replies.

In my opinion the paint should be sold thinned.  I am
in Phx AZ and the paint dried way to fast.  If I had
been able to add my own thinner I could of stopped
this from happening.  Second a second color was bought
in one of the aerosol cans.  No way near enough
pressure in the can to do a good job.

Anyway with all that said my problem is I now want to
spray a clear coat over my job which I hope will help
clean up a couple of bad spots.  I believe that the
paint that Total sells in not an enamel but a lacquer
(next time I get enamel mixed at the local auto paint
store) I am afraid that if I don't use the right clear
coat that I will end up with a total mess. I am afraid
the paint might blister because it is not an enamel.
ANYONE out there have any suggestions as to what to
use? Anyone else have a similar experience with Total
paint?   What does Total sell enamel or lacquer?

=====
Glen, K9STH

Web sites

http://home.attbi.com/~k9sth
http://home.attbi.com/~zcomco

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