[Hallicrafters] SX-71 Lid came out 'nice'

[jackiv at juno.com]

When you get the front panel you may not like the finish of the top next
to your new cabinet.
 If you carefully spray the top of the front panel with your new paint it
may be ok----
but your new paint may cause the old paint to wrinkle.  If so you have a
new ball game, 
so be careful as the top of the panel has had some touch up by me.
I will suggest that you put a small drop of new paint on the bottom of
the panel to see if it will wrinkle
if so you have a new ball game so to speak.
I went through this with an SX-99 last month and had a time to clean the
old paint off.
I just don't want you to get into more trouble....................
old jack---been there, done that.


On Sat, 20 Apr 2002 22:14:12 -0000 "Philip Atchley" <k06bb at elite.net>
writes:
> Hello all
> Well today I "basically" finished up the lid of the SX-71 receiver.  
> It
> looks REALLY nice.  This thing was basically "brown" with rust.
> 
> Here's the steps I went through, some following hints of those on 
> this
> reflector and some doing it "my own way".
> 
> 1.  Removed the lid from the cabinet (duh).
> 
> 2.  Using Jasco paint stripper I stripped all the old paint (what 
> remained)
> from the lid.
> 
> 3.  I then used wet/dry paper and got off all the rust I could.
> 
> 4.  I then used Jasco Metal prep to remove all the remaining rust, 
> including
> that in the perforations.  This product said to simply wipe on, let 
> sit
> overnight and then wipe off the white powder, prime (if desired) and 
> paint.
> However, I found it plugged up MANY of the perforations and could 
> not be
> easily removed by wiping (more like using a toothpick).  I then got 
> the
> bright idea, leaned it up against a tree, got the garden hose with 
> a
> "pressure nozzle" up close and "washed" the entire lid.  This 
> unplugged all
> the holes and removed the prep material.  I was left with a nice 
> clean lid
> that had been very lightly etched.
> 
> 5.  Dry off best I could, and left in the sun to dry (which it 
> quickly did).
> 
> 6.  Using Tie wraps I "hung" it by two of the hinge mounting holes 
> so that
> it hung vertical.  As I had to do this outside I figured that would 
> give it
> the least amount of surface for bugs and junk to light on.
> 
> 7.  Then I used Krylon "Rust Tough Zinc Rich" grey primer and gave 
> it a nice
> coat of primer, top, bottom sides etc.  I was afraid this might be a 
> 'thick"
> primer and plug the perforations again, but no, it went on well and 
> didn't
> plug them.
> 
> 8.  Then, after the primer set the obligatory 35-40 minutes I "Shot 
> it" with
> the Krylon Rust Tough aluminium Enamel.  Again, I was afraid it 
> would plug
> the holes, but no, it didn't.  It came out looking very nice.  I gave 
> it
> several light coats of the enamel and the paint came out nice and 
> even, no
> streaking, dripping or running!
> 
> NOTE:  I PURPOSELY DID NOT sand it smooth after the application of 
> the
> primer.  I liked the very light "texture" this gave the paint and I 
> figured
> that it would not have any shiny or extra "glossy" spots this way.  
> (Also
> probably helped to prevent any running).  The texture of the 
> finished
> product reminds me of some of the textured surfaces some of the 
> older gear
> used to have, though not as pronounced!  Probably keep the light 
> from
> "shining" off the surface and showing up any minor blems/scratches  
> that
> might appear over time.
> 
> One last thought:  I'm considering "clear coating" the lid, case and 
> front
> panel, especially if I can find a matte clear coat.   What think Ye? 
>  That
> should protect the lettering on the front panel (after it gets 
> here).
> 
> 73 de Phil  KO6BB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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