[Hallicrafters] Prepping metal lids

[Phil Atchley]

Hi Barry
I just now did some quick checking.  I took the "lid" with me when I bought
the paint I matched the paint lid  to a "relatively" clean area on the
underside of the lid where the rust hadn't attacked too badly.  The shelf
said "silver aluminium", the can said nothing.  My receipt says "Aluminium".
So, perhaps the can wasn't in the proper place on the shelf.  Anyway, it was
the closest match in the Krylon.  (I had considered making even the lid
black to help to dissipate heat  but decided to try to match original looks
as much as is reasonably practical.)

I chose Flat black as it too was the closest to the present case as there is
absolutely no gloss on the case or front panel, not even semi-gloss.  May be
due to age.  But I anticipated possibly putting a coat of "Clear coat" over
both the case and lid (And possibly the front panel when it arrives).  May
give it a harder surface to help keep scratches down.

I did get all the paint off of the lid this afternoon.  The paint remover
did a good job and the steel brush did seem to take the paint residue off
without scratching the surface.  Then (since my last email) I used some 220
grit wet/dry and sanded all the flat surfaces, rounded edges, nooks and
crannies etc.  Came out looking quite nice.  Tomorrow I'll use the metal
prep and that should take care of any missed (if any) light surface rust as
well as all the little perforations (I hope).  It really came out looking
quite nice already.  So, prep the surface, then a light primer (just to be
safe) and the final paint over the next couple days or so.

I'll probably take the spray can of Duro-Color "Rust Fix"  back and exchange
it for a can of proper primer, keeping and using the Jasco Prep/primer (It
does recommend using an oil based primer after it's dried).

73 de Phil  KO6BB


> Hi Phil --
>
> Before you open or use anything, suggest you check out my comments.
>
> > Hello all  Today I visited the paint store (and automotive store for
> spray
> > paint). Whew, those guys saw me coming!  Three cans at the auto store
> for a
> > can of Silver Aluminium color for the lid,
>
> What are we painting -- the SX-71?  I have one of them, but the cover is
> not the original color.  I believe the color scheme should be the same as
> an SX-42 or SX-62 and a number of other Hallicrafters of that era.
>
> If so, silver-aluminum may be too much.  An automotive silver-gray or
> pewter color may be more like it.  The silver on those "holy" covers is
> somewhat muted.  Too bright and you're radio will look "tacky" --- all
> together now "eeeeewwwwwwwwww"
>
> >Flat black for the case (Both Krylon Rust Tough enamel) and a can of
> Dupli-color "Rust-Fix" which is
> > supposed to turn light rust into black primer.
>
> Why flat black?  All of the Halli's I've seen are at least a semigloss or
> satin.  Flat, as a rule, hides more defects -- as it does for bad
> spackling on sheetrock walls.  However, on metal, it will mar easily with
> fingerprints and fingernail scratches.
>
> The black on all my Halli's (except the SX-28) appears to have a slight
> metal flake or metallic content, and all have some gloss to them.  It's
> easier to start with a full gloss paint, if satin isn't available --- I
> think you can find black satin in Rustoleum -- which is a more durable,
> but slower curing paint than Krylon.
>
> >
> > Then off to the paint shop where I got a can of Jasco Paint remover,
> Jasco
> > metal "Prep & Primer" which appears to do the same thing as the can of
> > "Rust-Fix" turning light rust into black primer.
>
> The self-etching primers seem to be OK.  I don't know about turning rust
> to black primer.  It's best to remove all the rust, and the best thing
> for that is a Scotchbrite pad.  Don't use steel wool and don't use a wire
> brush with steel bristles -- brass at most.  You can get a small brass
> bristle detailing brush in the auto supply stores -- often sold with a
> nylon and steel bristle one -- like big toothbrushes.
>
>   (It was about the same
> > price as the spray on "Rust-Fix" for a big quart bottle, I can  return
> > whichever I don't use).    Large and small steel brushes, heavy
> > "solvent" type rubber gloves (I already had safety goggles).
>
> The steel brushes may be harder than the steel of the cabinet and cover
> and too coarse.  Test them on an inconspicuous spot.  The scratches they
> make might show through the new paint, unless you really lard it on.
> Also, the bristles are probably too stiff to do much good in the cover
> holes.
>
> > Now, a couple questions.
> > 1.  It appears that a light coat of "rust" might be actually of
> > benefit in preparing the metal.  that fits the description of the "holy
> lid"
> > after I removed the paint from it (what paint was left on it).  I had
> > intended to use the remaining Naval Jelly I have to remove the surface
> rust but
> > it appears this step may NOT be necessary or even desirable.  This lid
> > has a light coating of surface rust but no pits etc.  Your thoughts??
>
> Get rid of the rust.  Don't fall for the hypee on the label.  Light rust
> will come off easily with a Scotchbrite pad and you can use it over and
> over by washing it out.  Use it wet toward the end.
>
>
> > 2.  Has anybody used the Jasco Prep & Primer (a green liquid in a
> > plastic bottle)?  It says it contains Phosphoric Acid and turns rust to
>
> > inert black primer.
>
> I've use straight/diluted phosphoric acid which is essential in some form
> for painting bare metal.  I also used a self-etching gray primer which
> worked well.  I'm surprised they didn't offer the straight prep wash
> (phosphoric acid) at the auto paint shop.  In that form, it's put on with
> a sponge, allowed to sit for a few minutes and then flushed with clean
> water to remove all traces.   I don't know about turning rust into black
> primer - have to check with an alchemist on that one ;-)  BTW, phosphoric
> acid is one of the active ingredients in Coca Cola.  Traditional going
> back to the custom mixed at the soda fountain days -- yup, ye olde
> "phosphate"  It helps settle the stomach and was a favorite for curing
> the "vapors".  You can still buy it in anti-nausea products over the
> counter.
>
> In paint prep, phosphoric acid micro-etches slick steel surfaces so the
> primer will hold.  If you ever saw a car with paint peeling in big sheets
> -- it wasn't prepped right.
>
>   How about the Dupli-Color in a spray can?  It doesn't list
> > it's ingredients but I suspect it is a similar product in a spray can.
>
> > Probably the thin liquid and the spray would 'most likely' get into all
> the
> > little vent perforations about equally well.  Spray is probably easier
> to
> > use but the Jasco product was cheaper considering the quanity obtained
> of
> > just a little more money.
>
> Is the Dupli-Color a primer too?  I dunno -- seems you would have gotten
> a better color match for the cover with some Dupli-Color silver-grey for
> some car or other.  There is that guy who sells the right paint for the
> Halli's.
> >
> > Now, I don't know if the Paint remover did it or if I tore it on a
> > sharp corner on the lid but my left hand rubber glove 'developed' a
> large
> > hole in the thumb area.  Think I may have tore it on the lid.  Bummer!
>
> Tape it up with electrical tape.
>
> I dunno, Phil.  It doesn't sound like you have the ideal supplies.  What
> say the crew?
>
> Barry



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